Page 2 of 3
Mazda Lowering Static \ Need help lowering my Mazda (more)Need help lowering my Mazda (more)
views 3136
replies 20
following 8
anguswilly
+1y
If you don't mind spending $50-$100 look up a spring shop in your area that will de-arch the leafs - it'll ride almost the same but you won't have as much axle wrap and no blocks needed, just ask them to make them flat (once installed they will arch the opposite way.
I have lowered my mazdas that way for 20 years.
You will need to cut down the rear bump stops to flat, the current truck I have, the guy was too scared to make my springs flat so when I picked them up he did them so they still had a bit of arc - this means I now have a 1.5" block (had to machine down a 2" block) in there to get where it's low enough
I have lowered my mazdas that way for 20 years.
You will need to cut down the rear bump stops to flat, the current truck I have, the guy was too scared to make my springs flat so when I picked them up he did them so they still had a bit of arc - this means I now have a 1.5" block (had to machine down a 2" block) in there to get where it's low enough
thatmazdakid
+1y
Thanks so much! I will check out my local shops. what are you talking about when you said "I will have them de-arch them more and do a small notch." what notch are you talking about? im sorry but a lot of this is all new to me.
Thanks so much! I will check out my local shops. what are you talking about when you said "I will have them de-arch them more and do a small notch." what notch are you talking about? im sorry but a lot of this is all new to me.
thatmazdakid
+1y
I also have a prime membership so i might look into these more. Will these get the back pretty low with the middle leaf pulled and inflated the shocks to the lowest PSI?
I also have a prime membership so i might look into these more. Will these get the back pretty low with the middle leaf pulled and inflated the shocks to the lowest PSI?
dgtllvr
+1y
Not sure, but with a 2" block even it should be axle on frame (as far as I remember from back in the day). The shocks mount below the axle, so you still have plenty of length to compensate. With air shocks there is usually a minimum and maximum PSI. As long as you don't completely air out the shocks they still work as shocks.
Not sure, but with a 2" block even it should be axle on frame (as far as I remember from back in the day). The shocks mount below the axle, so you still have plenty of length to compensate. With air shocks there is usually a minimum and maximum PSI. As long as you don't completely air out the shocks they still work as shocks.
thatmazdakid
+1y
Ok so i re-indexed the front and now i have the back. I looked at a couple of forums on how to remove a spring but they all seem so confusing. I have never worked with rear leaf springs and this seems like a pretty daunting thing for me. Do you by chance have any links to any tutorials that are easy to follow?
Ok so i re-indexed the front and now i have the back. I looked at a couple of forums on how to remove a spring but they all seem so confusing. I have never worked with rear leaf springs and this seems like a pretty daunting thing for me. Do you by chance have any links to any tutorials that are easy to follow?
chaserjohndoe
+1y
I'm running 3 inch blocks on mine. How many teeth did you rotate on the torsion bars? That will kinda dictate what you do in the back.
emjay
+1y
Here is a point of reference for you. This is my current daily driver when I first got it. Rear has 4" blocks and de-arched springs with overload removed. Front had torsion bars completely removed. All shocks blown (still are) and riding on the bump stops. Basically as low as it can go without notching or lowering control arms.
And a shot of the rear weighted down. Front has torsion bars reinstalled before I adjusted them to get back up in the air.
And a shot of the rear weighted down. Front has torsion bars reinstalled before I adjusted them to get back up in the air.
anguswilly
+1y
How much space is between your frame and rear axle tube (the actual axle, not the bump stop)?
It seems like you could go a lot lower, I am running a 245/35/18 in rear and I have about 2+" of travel and maybe 1" of tire gap. that is a 6" de-arch and 1.5" block - my old truck was exactly 1/2" lower but I have one leaf added and that made it better because it would not hit the frame so hard on big bumps.
How much space is between your frame and rear axle tube (the actual axle, not the bump stop)?
It seems like you could go a lot lower, I am running a 245/35/18 in rear and I have about 2+" of travel and maybe 1" of tire gap. that is a 6" de-arch and 1.5" block - my old truck was exactly 1/2" lower but I have one leaf added and that made it better because it would not hit the frame so hard on big bumps.