Moving gas tank?

oh i see what your talking about.
the shortness of the link bar presents another problem. (imo a problem anyway) through the suspension cycle the axle will swing a smaller, more noticible arc, moving the rear axle foreward and backward - the tire will move around in the wheel opening, and it's less noticible with a longer bar.
i'm not saying your wrong or the way your truck is is wrong, but its just geometry.
to mazda23 - the wheel moving foreward and back in the wheel opening will be less noticible with less suspension travel too, but if you are going to be setting up the truck to get a foot of lift, you'll notice the tire move out of the center of the wheelwell.
so - on that note, i'd just like to say that's my opinion and i'm not trying to be an ass or tell anyone their shit's wrong or whatever, it just bugs me when i see a wheel not in the center.

i understand that the wheel will move forward and back if my bars are to short. I was going to make them as long as possible.

i completely agree with you. just look at the pics of my truck to see what he is talking about. the short lower links makes my wheels move forward in the wheelwell when laid out, but it was setup to be centered while at ride height. its merely cosmetic, but still noticeable, and annoys me a little. so you are correct. its just the way MOST people set them up, lower bars under frame, and uppers however.

if your lower bars are parrallel to the ground when at ride height the wheels will move forward when laid out. if you want to correct this use longer lower links to diminish the affect of the arch, or set your ride height higher, but then the wheels will move back in the wheel well when laid. etc.

but yea, you are right. i was just going by what most people do.

so should i make my lowers longer then my top ones or should i make them the same length but as long as possible?? what would be the better setup

also if i want to do side to side and 3 wheel can i use a triangular 4 link with out super pivots?? or would a wishbone work?? what would be the best set up

you shouldn't make your lower bars longer per say,(there could be certain circumstances where you can set up your rearend to shift weight upon acceleration to add traction, kind of like a cantilever for the body but there's a lot to that, and it's really in depth.) having one set of bars longer than the other will create pinion angle change during the suspension cycle. your upper and lower bars can be different lengths if your running a triangulated 4link, but try to keep the pivot points lined up with each other(vertically). that'll give you no pinion change. run them long, mine are 33".
i have a wishbone now, with just rubber bushings, and clevis's on the 'bone and it works fine. i've had a triangulated 4link with rubber bushings, and it worked fine too. hit sides just fine. i personally don't believe in spending the extra $ for the super pivot heim joints but im sure someone will tell you that's the only way to go - but to each their own.

ya i heard you can hit side to side just fine with rubber bushings. But would i need to put one of those adjuster bushing that you put on the top links on the bottom too??? so i will turn a bit or do i not need to do this??

wouldn't be a bad idea. i run all mine adjustable.

Im about to move my gas tank finally but i got a question. That filter thing thats hooked up to my tank and is located on the frame, looks like a filter or something, does that have to move with the tank to the back or can it stay there and i just extend that one line?? tell me if you dont know what im talking about and i would like to know what it is.

anyone??? i need to know by tomorrow because thats when i go get my extra fuel line and start to move the tank