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Mazda Exterior \  chop top tech please...

chop top tech please...

Mazda Exterior Mazda Tech
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replies 23
following 10
 
crazymikey   +1y


dude that is sick! awesome job!

That is SO what my truck should look like....but green.
maztang (ryan)   +1y
hey flamed, when you lay the pillers back does the glass hit the stock dash or does it clear? also can you show me where you cut the roof, B pillar and A piller? i am guessing that you have to take 2" out of both the b piller and the roof? i started shaving the rain gutters this weekend and i still need to order my b piller fillers from matt. this will probably be the last thing i do but i am trying to do as much research now before i start cutting.
dropped90(justin)   +1y
good luck with the cut maztang it will be worth it in the end if you just take your time be patient and do it right good luck
gravity5   +1y
You would have to take out whatever amount out of the b pillars. but the a pillar / roof seam would be less if you were to lean the windshield back....
maztang (ryan)   +1y
so just cut a line with a cutting wheel along the roof and take 2" out of the b pillar and bring it down and weld it up, then lean the a pillars back and cut the roof in small increments until they butt up, is this right or would that even work?

also, where do you cut the b pillar at? i am guessing the bottom and also cut 2" out of the wall below the back window?
mazberrydelight   +1y
the chop itself is relatively easy , getting the doors frames to function properly was a huge pain in the ass.no point in doing a chop ubless its %100 functional , flameds10 windows wind up and down fully and the doors seal perfectly , alot of work involved
speedster93b   +1y

be careful cutting... there's been many a chop top gone bad that end up as 'roadsters' i bet most wouldn't admit it... but hey whatever.
it's good your planning and researching as much as possible.
where you want to make your cuts is where it'll line up the best when it's dropped down. heck you might even make a cut near the top of the b pilllar and take out 3/4" and another one near the bottom and take another 3/4"... that way it will line up pretty well... not too many pie cuts or wedge cuts.
if you want to go with the layed back windshield then you can cut the a pillar at the bottom almost all the way thru... starting from the back of the truck and cutting foreward, as to make a gap so it'll lay down. make a cut and pull it down, make another cut and pull it down, etc, so you don't cut too much and have to fill a bunch.
i personally don't dig the look of a layed back pillar, but some do. if you didn't wanna lay it back you could sink the windshield into the cowl area... and drop the top and either make a new roof skin or cut it into quarters and make a + shaped strip of fillers, or my favorite cut it into quarters then cut out the middle and make just a new top skin. remember this is a huge (maybe not so huge) area and it is going to warp like shit. just go slow and be sure to hammer out your welds a little. the less heat you put into the middle the better, thats why i like the idea of making a new top roof skin..
may i suggest you cut the top first and get it tacked back together and then do the doors last... its easier to match the doors to the roof then the roof to the doors if you know what im sayin.
maztang (ryan)   +1y


hey bro is devin, Devb22? if so where has he been? i haven't seen him on in a while.
maztang (ryan)   +1y


sweet bro, thanks for all the information. it seemed so much easier at first. hahaha. i have to get better at welding before i do anything this big. i started shaving the rain gutters and damn that roof is thin. i went off the chart that is on the welder and burnt through in a few small spots. nothing major though. so i turned the heat and wire speed way down and it is doing better. still a pain though. but i figure if i can get good at welding thin stuff than the thicker stuff should be no problem. at least that is what i have been told.
dropped90(justin)   +1y
if you have burn through holes you can take a piece of brass like a punch or something and put behind the hole if you can get to it to have something to weld against because the brass will not weld to what you are welding. this keeps the hole from getting bigger and also keeps the weld an actual solid weld and not just dog poop glopped together and then grinded down.