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Mazda Exterior \  Getting close to paint but need help first

Getting close to paint but need help first

Mazda Exterior Mazda Tech
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dvsdev   +1y
Ok so i've decided that i'm goint to paint in a few weeks (once my replacement tailgate arrives), and have decided to do a two tone paint style but I need help with a few simple things.

I'm thinking of painting the top straight mixer white and do the bottom in a dark navy blue.
So that it's not too aggressive of a transition I'm thinking of doing a thin pinstripe about 10mm (3/8") below the join.

So what I need to know is

1, Can I paint with standard PPG single pack paint (don't know the proper name) then do a two pack clear over the top without any issues.

2, Since my truck is white and I'm painting top a brighter white do I need to prime the whole thing, and do I need to prime at all.

3, When doing two tone do I paint it all one color first, mask up then paint darker color? or do I paint top down below joining line, mask up and paint the second darker color.

4, I'm thinking of doing a white stripe just below the join, do I just mask it and paint it all as one.

5, How do I make the transition between colors sharp but not raised, I painted my pocket bike and it had a 3D effect where the paint overlapped, and when I tried to sand it down a bit the edges chipped.

And lastly how much paint do I need? in metric if you could (it took me about 5 min to work out the 3/8" bit)

Thanks
baha   +1y
1. You can but read the can as to how to do it, paint manufacturers are really good at providing that information. You can probably get by with just scuffing it.
2. For best results you need to paint it with sealer first, then paint.
3. Never have done it but have seen it done both ways. Personally I would paint the bottom color first than the top.
5. To get the nice transition you need to clear coat the paint job.

And one gallon of paint total would probably be enough, depends on how much reducer you will use and also if you are doing the jambs.

Good luck can't wait to see pics!
sleepyspeed   +1y
I have cleared over a single stage paint before, it's best do do a test panel before trying it on the whole truck. Generally you probably should get the clear on the single stage fairly quick (same day) so I would do the lower first then the white on top.

On transitions you fade the paint so as it covers but isn't building high on the masking line. There will always be a line it gets buried in clear.

That's about all I know from personal experience, I never went to a paint & body school just learned with old dudes.
dvsdev   +1y
Cool, so do the dark color, mask up and do the line for the stripe.
Then when I paint try to keep the color thin near the join?
Thick enough to cover the color but not too thick so it isn't raised?
Then just clear over the top nice and thick and buff back down till it's shiny?

Should I sand inbetween colors or before the clear or leave it alone so the edges are defined and I don't sand through to the lower paint?
sleepyspeed   +1y
normally you do light then dark on paint, but if your using single stage/base basecoat then clear do dark first.

^^^ yes to the three questions, except don't over do the clear it will make the paint job brittle.

Don't waste time color sanding unless it's trailer queen. Just wet sand and buff the clear you'll be good
dvsdev   +1y
Heh heh I thought I'd recycle my old topic again.
Weather's finally nice here so I've started prepping the ute for it's paint now, new guards and tailgate, spot fill the little dents stuff like that.
Was hoping I could pick your brains again about painting?
I've decided to do a full repaint in one color (Lexus Champagne Gold) instead of the two tone and using 2 pak paint now too.

Mostly what I need to know is some prep stuff, my ute (truck) is the cab plus model, how do I remove the trim around the back side windows, the windscreen trim and the one on the doors up against the glass?
When painting I plan to remove all the trimmings that I can, door handles, latches, grille, head and tail lights, to make it as good as a finish as possible without masking lines, but what do I do about the inside sill area's of the doors and the front guards under the bonnet?
Do I open the doors and mask up the whole cab hole and the engine bay so I can paint then shut them for the outside paint to be done.
Since I'm doing a single color in 2 pak do I still need to clear coat?
Thanks again
all22s   +1y
i'd recommend scuffing the truck and primering with a self etching primer then sealing it with a color close to the final color. it will give you better coverage over all. i recommend primering and sealing sue to giving the top coat something to adhere to. if you see a newer car with flaking paint it is due to the primer cost being either applied wrong or a bad batch. but no matter what you are painting, always start with a good base and work your way from there. if you half ass it then it wont turn out the way you want it to. it will probably end up costing you more to fix it than it originally would have to properly do it the first time around.

jeremy
lowered_impressions   +1y
^^^ OVER KILL.
If it's not a laquer paint job you can go right over it. Just CLEAN it really well, scuff, and clean again. Use all the same brand products (all PPG) and the clear should go over the single stage fine. However if your going to clear it, just do a base clear. 1 gallon is way more than enough. Use fine line masking tape, it gives a way better line, and remove while it's wet.
dvsdev   +1y
Cool thanks, I was going to prepsol it really well anyway, I have 4 gallons of this stuff so I'll make sure there's nothing there to cause any grief.
So I don't suppose anyone can tell me anything to watch out for or good tips when removing the trim bits?
I know saving the clips on the windscreen edging is near impossible but I don't really know how to remove the trim over the side and rear little window.
Also how hard is it to remove the back window (1 piece) or should I just mask that for ease?
I was talking with the PPG rep at the paint supplier when I was getting mu prices for the paint and he said that with the new generation of 2 pak paint there's no need to clear over the top, it's the Cobra brand of PPG paint, anyone else used it and if so is this right?
Thanks again
dvsdev   +1y


Anyone?
Mostly I just need to know about removing the various chrome bits without destroying them, the back window was just in case it's a really easy thing to do without breaking it.
If anyone does know how to remove it, how hard is it to put back in?