Painting interior

Alrighty! So I got to thinking, how can I go about getting my interior panels painted? I want to go for the smooth and shiny look! But then there in lies my question!

Could I go with putting some fiberglass over it, or rough it up and put body filler on it? I would then have a smooth surface to prime and then paint.

But then I got to thinking, I have used Krylon Fusion. Its a paint that adheres to plastic! Okay, well I don't know much about it since its a one stage type of paint! What would happen if I sanded my interior smooth and painted it? The grooves would'nt fill! Then I would have to make sure I filled them somehow and primed it. Could I not apply the fusion paint to a primer?

Lol, so confusing! I've got to get my interior panels painted before I can finish the rest of my interior!

Just bring it up to me and leave it a couple weeks....LOL...I usually hit the panels up with like 100 - 150 to rough them up really good...then I spray a plasctic adhesion promoter on everything....Alsa's PLASTIC is killer...then hit it up with 3 good coats of high build 2K primer(most will be sanded off) Let it cure at least a week, then start sanding it all with 400 on a block, once that is done come back with 600 to get rid of all of the sandind scratches. Then base it or if you are like me prime it with a primer sealer 2K of course....then base it ( I use a wet on wet sealer ) clear it....or if you want graphics or any type of special effects do than then clear it.

Unfortunately, all of what I need is at my school! I do not have a spray gun or booth to do this in. So everything has to be done by rattle can! I dunno if they make a high-build primer for rattle can, do they?

My main problem will be scratches! So I cannot use the Krylon Fusion. The fusion paint will not adhere to any primer I put down. So Its either, I paint it white and have the texture, or I smooth it and use body filler to fill the scratches! I have fiberglass filler as well, but its hard to sand stuff to feather!

All the products we use a HVLP gun. K36, and Feather fill primer. And the DPLF series epoxy primers. But I don't need any epoxy!

Is this 2k stuff in a rattle can? And have you never thought of using infrared bake lights to cure it?

Yes I too use K36 both as a high build surfacer and as a sealer, mixed different ways of course.....2K refers to 2 part systems...k36 and dplf primers are of the 2k variety, stuff in a rattle can is not, except for the alsa stuff, they have rattle cans that you push a button on the bottom to release the catalyst then shake it up really well and it will properly harden like a 2 part system because it is....non of the other shake and spray primers are 2k and they will have problems down the road.


As for a Baking light, yes I have had experience with them, and for refinishing they are well OK for a production shop that doesn't care about the car 2 years down the road.... Paint drys from the outside in, which is what the IR light speeds up, but they cure from the inside out, which, by baking the outter layer dry can trap solvents under that surface film, and cause solvent pop, delamination, and other adverse affects down the road. I therefore do not use drying lights or even baking booths for any work I do.

man,that explains why the paint peeled on my door on my old Celica after I got in a wreck and had the bodyshop fix it. They sprayed the left front corner and half my left door,and put the car in to 'the bake room'


Anyways,back on the topic at hand,in one of the mags,it was either Sport Truck or Truckin,just a few issues back,they had a how-to on how to sand and prep plastic for painting. I will try and look for the issue.

Thanks for putting in some effort for me mikey!

Yea, we rarely use K36 as a high-build primer now... We use feather-fill primer. It is HELL to sand though. So your saying that if I use ALSA rattle can primer, it will be a high-build primer in a can? Lol, sounded a little redundant.

I knew about how it cures, but I never thought about it that way! I have never heard of my teachers talk about what you have exp. from baking though... That makes sense but is weird nonetheless! I want to argue with you about it, but I think I'm going to keep my lips zipped about it, lol!

Alright, so heres the story! A couple days ago, I took the long narrow panel from the interior of the back of the cab, right under the window and sanded it with 60 grit. I bought a nightmare of sandpaper! I think I went through a 6"x10" sheet of it just for the panel! It is gen. purpose crap from wal-mart and sucks! Its like sand on paper mache! Anyways, I got it all smoothed out, there was no more texture.

So then, I knew everything was scratched up good enough. I then took some fiberglass body filler and smeared a good coat of it onto the panel. I let it dry and then sanded that. I opened it up and then smeared a coat of what is between body filler and glazing putty. I sanded that down today and it is smooth! Its not straight by any means but it is smooth!

I could now prime it and then paint it with a gloss white in a can. I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet, though...

I'm worried about the rest of my panels being wavy since the surface is straight to begin with! I'm betting it won't necessarily matter because its not like your in the back of the cab looking at it in the light trying to spot the highs and lows... I dunno? I know the panel I did now won't matter because there is no way of looking at it at an angle. Lol, but a basecoat will turn up the worst in everything!

damn , i just cleaned my interior pannels really well, let them dry , swabbed them down with a scotchbrite pad and painted them with krylon fusion rattle can.......

i did another two thin coats, , then let them cure for a week.

i did it this way because i wanted to keep the factory texture.

just make sure you clean the crap out of them, then spray a high build primer on it, and paint. It will have that smooth finish with out glassing it, also you can get the primer with body filler in it at auto parts stores.

mines cheap as black. with texture ecause ilike texture ther than not. -bf

all u have to do is scuff the plastic with 80 or 100, 80 is a lil faster, wash the plastic in hot soapy water, i use sunlight because i werked at a bodyshop and the head painter/ prep'r said its the best, dry it, spray high build/sandable primer , about 3 coats, wet sand with 400, paint.

this werks but i have also been wondering that since its plastic u usually but plastic primer/ adhesion promoter down to make paint stick. thats all u have to do to just cover the panels if u dont want them smooth. but if u want to have them smooth do u have to put adhesion promoter first then to the sandable primer steps?scuff, clean, adhesion promoter, sandable primer, smooth, paint. would that make it more durable and last longer?

ill have to give it a try.

sorry for talking in circles, hopefully someone knows what imtalking about.