Ok man I am no professional but have done a few installs. Take the Yellow wire out of your head unit and label it Constant. Blue would be remote lead, Red is your ignition switched and black being ground. Now got to like walmart or Harbour Freight (i have a digital 20% of coupon I can send for you to print out) and get just a cheap little light tester. You will take the clamp end of this and clamp it to a piece of metall that is attached to the body of your truck. Most likely a bracket that is there for the dash. Then take the pointy end and poke it into an empty slot on your fuse block located on the lower left side of your dash. This is if you have a blank spot. If you do and you stick it in and the light lights up GREAT. Make sure to do this with the keys in the floorboard, seat, where ever just not the ignition. This wire is now you constant. This is also based on if you have a blank area that can except a fuse. Next you can go to radio shack or an auto motive store some times and find these nice little brass pieces that actually snap around the fuse and have a male end on it. You would put that on the opposite side of the hot slot you found in the fuse block. Now you have your constant. You could also run you own wire into the back of the fuse block so that it looks stock. Two things. Use zip ties to keep wires out of sight and out of the way of feet and use the proper size wire/fuse combo. I have attached two quick diagrams for your reference. Now like I said I am not a profesional so I may get blasted but I know this way works and works decent for a small set up. If you are looking to compete and have a high end dead head no speaker outputs just preamps only) then call your professional buddies up to do it for you. Enjoy and good luck.