JL Audio JX500/1 amp wiring

so i just bought a jl audio jx500/1 amp to replace my massive pa50. i wired it all up and the amp gets extremely hot and im a little lost. ive got 2 12" mtx svc 4ohm thunder4000 subs in a ported box. ive got them running parallel inside the box. on this new amp i noticed a difference with the positive and negative terminals. most amps ive seen including my massive have it as + - + - and labeled left right and bridged. but this jl amp has it as + + - - and it isnt labeled at all and doesnt say shit in the manual about which is the left channel and which is the right channel or which ones are bridged. if anybody knows could you please help me out??

the 500/1 is a mono amp so it only has 1 channel. the -- is only there so that you can run several wires to it so that it there is a heathier feed to your speakers because of the more wire. you can grab just one of the and one of the - and go to your box. that amp runs 2ohm smoothly so it shouldnt have a problem with your 2 svc speakers.

Plz tell me you didn't crank your gain all the way up.and make sure the amp has proper entelation if it can't breathe she will get hot. And is it getting warm? Or hot to the touch? I think they run warm do0ue to being a regulated power supply and they are ineffeicent. Rockford amps run warm too.

If you are running the stock Mazda alt you are not supplying enough current to the amp. I suspect you are prob running multiple amps too one for the highs and mids and the JL for the subs. I do not have the exact figures but at full chat the 500/1 can draw a lot of current and with a wimpy alt and loud music somethings gonna give, turn the gain down to half.

its stock alt. no other amps, gain is at about a 1/3. its got good ventilation, and ya it gets hot to the touch. it sounds like its internally bridged so therefore if i run the subs in parallel like i have its going from 4ohm to 2ohm but once it gets to the amp its going from 2ohm to 1ohm and the amp cant handle it. so i think im gonna try and run all 4 wires straight to the amp and see if it changes anything. and i guess if it still gets hot its more then likely my stock alt. not being able to keep up so i could get a bass cap and hopefully solve that issue.

Internally bridged?.......no such thing as that. You have 2 svc 4ohm speakers wired in parallel so you are pulling a 2ohm load from the amp, end of story. If you got an overheating issue and the amp is new, you may want to look again at the speakers

ok so i re-wired the subs so the amp is reading 4ohms. still gettin hella hot but it hasnt shut down yet so i dunno whats goin on. i called the guy who i bought it from and all he said was bigger ground wire... im runnin 8 gauge right now. can anybody gimme the low down on that?

the amp you have is a mono block doesnt matter what way you hook it up, the amp is going read the subs as a 2ohm load, unless one of the coils are bad, then it will read differently, you need to use a multi meter and check, and you need to increase the size of that ground, that amp is starving for voltage, if the power wire is 4gauge then the ground needs to be the same, no longer then 16" long, and also add a 4gauge ground wire from the negitive side of the battery to the body of the truck, just follow the exisiting one already there, alot of people think they NEED a cap, you'll be surprised how many people dont know this
just remember this: 4gauge power from battery to amp, you need the same size ground from the amp to the body and battery
in short.... what goes in must come out.
i do this on all my rides, and ive never needed a cap, and ive been an installer for 13 years

ok thanks mike

Good bit of advice Mike! All I can add is to make sure the metal you are grounding to is clean and you use the right size lug and bolt on the end of the wire. Have seen a few installs with big ground wires held to sheet metal with a small sheet metal screw