DadandSonEyes 1989 MAZDA B2600i 4X4 Cab Plus continues HELP

Mazda-man......I would get the new oil pump if your doing all of that to your engine, it's $250.00 well spent I would think. On my first B2600i truck, I used the original oil pump because the truck only had 83,000 miles on it. This one that I am building now, has 230,000 on it so I would think it was ready for a new oil pump.
Yes, I would think you need to have the balance shafts in place when you close the engine up, otherwise you would be hemorrhaging oil from the balance shaft bearing areas (6 of them I believe!) and that would give you a very low oil pressure to the rest of your bearings.

DandS......I haven't messed with any of the first gen Mazda's yet, but if it is in good condition (body wise) then I would think it's worth it.

Thanks again. Great info. -- DandSEyes

NEED a NEW CLUTCH Slip disc maybe pressure plate too. WHAT BRANDS ARE GOOD? OR What BRANDS TO STAY AWAY from ? I think the pressure plate and flywheel plate are ok, just look glazed, really shiny and smooth. Can/should these be "turned" at a machine shop ? Also, what is a Stage 1, Stage 3 clutch for? racing only? more pressure, etc ?

I can tell you this much when ours went out in our 91 b2600i 4x4 i used a Centerforce Dual-Friction clutch set and i will never use another company i have used them for years in racecars and they are Awesome this truck will bark his 32s

IF I get the Block all cleaned up at machine shop, should they also do crank ( polish crank ) or leave it alone?

If your not having the crank re-ground, then I wouldn't have it polished......use it as it is, UNLESS it is scored, then have the machine shop re-grind it to what it needs to be in order to remove the scoring, and they should polish it at that point.
You would then need to use the appropriate sized bearings for the re-ground crank.........sometimes they grind the main journals more than the rod journals, and sometimes vice versa.......they will have a tag on the crank to let you know how many 'thousandths' they have turned each area down.

I just bought an Exedy Clutch Kit like this one......for 117.00 shipped through Amazon.com.......I haven't installed it yet, but it should fit I would think. Exedy is the stock replacement clutches that Mazda sells I believe......it's made in Japan also.

Here's a Google search on the kit I bought.....

Thanks Axel.

I just stripped block down and removed pistons and crank. I took the crank and block to the machine shop that haddone my head a week ago. The young guy there is a different guy than the one tha did my head. Young guy felt crank said "it will need to be turned and polished. You might need a NEW crank". I don't think I need a new one. This one was tight as hell and seemed to not even budge when I tried to see if there was any play in it. Anyway. He also said I need to bring the Balance shafts there and they will put in new bearings. I said "Only use Clevite bearings!" and he said they will. I also said to replace all the freeze plugs with new brass ones!( should I use steel or is brass better? Only a few dollars more). He said bring your pistons and number them and we will clean them also. Anything I should know o tell them. ???? Thanks.
I was also going to take
My fly wheel and have them turn it remove glaze and clutch pressure plate. Worth it???

DadandSonEyes

Unless the keyway on the crank snout is boogered up or the crank journals are scored bad, you won't need a new crank.
Yes, have your flywheel turned before you install a new clutch, but I don't think they will turn a pressure plate, at least I have never done that......I get the kit and install a new PP.
Your rods should be marked (stamped) 1 through 4 down near where the cap fits on the big end of it.

My bottom of rods is numbered this way.
Piston rod #1 is labeled "0"
Piston rod #2 is labeled "1"
Piston rod #3 is labeled "2"
Piston rod #4 is labeled "2"

Why. I do not know. But from front of engine to the back. In order 0,1,2,2 is what is marked on the rods. And on the crank journal bearing caps it is labeled this way:

From front of crank to back.
Each has an arrow pointing to the front of block with a number "23" on each one. I'm on my iPhone so I'm not sure how to upload the pictures from iPhone.

I can upload later. Or send me an email to and I can reply with pictures from iPhone.

Thanks Axel breaker Earl.

DadandSonEyes.

help -- WHAT WEBPAGE's have the best pricing for the FOLLOWING:
1) POWER STEERING PUMP PULLEY
2) Belts ( and what BRAND NAME ) ?
3) MAIN RELAY
4) MAIN COMPUTER
5) A/C Condenser/radiator
6) Drum Brake PADS ( IS THERE A CONVERSION KIT TO DISC ? I HATE DRUMS )

Thanks ---- DadandSonEyes - Raleigh, NC