PROJECT: 1LOWB22.

Yes, it is bubble wrap, lol. I'm not trying to mess up those chrome bars!

Droppedmydawg: i feel the same way you do, No one has ever convinced me or gave me reasons not to do a reverse 4 link, And my original plan was to keep stock gas tank, thats the biggest reason. But now things are changing as were building it.

Thanks for all the good feedback guys!

Little info on the reverse 4 link: Basically the rear suspension works backwards from what you normally would anticipate. Under acceleration the axel wants to "lift" which causes a loss of traction (remember, you only have 85hp, not 500hp). During bracking the opposite happens, the axel wants to "push" down which can cause the front of the truck to dive during hard bracking. If you run good shocks and keep the bars level at ride height the "push" is almost un-noticable. The above is from experience as my daughters truck was built with a reverse 4 link.

Another bit of experience - if you lay frame with the gas tank in the "stock" location you will most likely rub a hole in it or punchure it. If you raise it an inch or so, you would be a LOT safer. Can't remember how many build pics are on "The Dragon" build thread but it is in this section.

yeah i raised mine. it has a few scratches on it but i think thats from my unlevel ass gravel driveway.

cant it also pull out on the driveshaft?

Reverse 4 links work for low HP minitrucks with 10" of travel. Honestly, it is the wrong way to do it, but with the amount of travel and low hp most minitrucks have it doesn't matter. Even my 4 link which is forward is "wrong." If you look at mine, my upper links are together at the frame pivot, and seperate at the axle. This changes the way that the axle pivots. The axle will travel in an arc, side to side the way I have it. No bueno if you are looking for hard cornering, but its a minitruck, and it will work good enough for me. Plus it lets me keep my stock gas tank in the stock location.

A reverse for link will work just fine if done correctly on a minitruck, but throw some big horse power at it and you will notice the dive characteristics. I don't like them because they are "more wrong" than what I did to mine to make it work with the stock tank.
In order to have a "correct" triangulated 4-link the bars need to be forward, the upper links should be close at the axle pivots and spread at the frame pivots, the vertical seperation at the axle should be greater at the axle than the frame, the uppers should be shorter than the lowers, and if you were to draw an imaginary line along the upper and lower links on the horizontal plane they would intersect at the front of the crankshaft. Hard to explain, but thats the general idea.

Yes, hard to explain but you did just fine.

Bump.

Finishing up the 4 link today..

Pics to follow.

Lets get them darn pics!

My thoughts exactly