elbine69
+1y
Might want to do a bit more reading on setting up the 4 link and stuff. This site has some pretty good info
I dont wanna sound like a dick, but I think you need to some more reading and research. This site has some good info
I dont wanna sound like a dick, but I think you need to some more reading and research. This site has some good info
mazdamandan
+1y
I would suggest backhalfing that frame, it's to rough to trust it, there is more than surface rust there bro its all through n some spots, ya dont want any twisting with bags in there. might cost ya 100.00 in steel but it will be cooler and easier and actually cheaper by the time ya look into painting it and dealing with the rust removal, and buying a cnotch etc. its yer build jus lookin out bro
check out mine, my first bag job on here look fer tubbin n dubbin
check out mine, my first bag job on here look fer tubbin n dubbin
mazdalowrider
+1y
yeah i know that but im doing triangulated 4link. the bars are suppose to be parallel, its the top ones that r a ? for me, like is it suppose to be longer and all that jazz
yeah i know that but im doing triangulated 4link. the bars are suppose to be parallel, its the top ones that r a ? for me, like is it suppose to be longer and all that jazz
nc4life
+1y
What you general want is the top bars to be as long, if they are a little shorter thats ok. You want the top of the back bars as close to the center of the pumpkin as you can get them. This is very, very, very rough drawing I just made to try and help. Also hear is video I found that will help with bar lengths and placement. Hope some of this helps.
Post was last edited on May 01, 2009 02:05. This post has been edited 1
times.
mazdamandan
+1y
I think the issue is , its not so simple as it sounds, to just say measure and place here, and weld bracket "A" on this specified angle, there is no set rule or perfect kit or standard setup......... yet.
There are some good principles that must be employed to allow a person the chance to do the best job he can.
Ride height , and dropped height, wheel size, and expected lift, and the concept of instant center, are the things I had to figure out before I could do anything as far as picking the 4 link mounting positions went, then to figure out how my wheel size was going to offset axle height, plus, that would determine how high of a C notch was required, and how much box was to be sacrificed, and all the while knowing where your pinion angle is at.
Max makes some good points there in the aformentioned article, its posted on ssm by seth, twisted minis. From there a good conversation with biomax himself breaks out and a lot of good questions were asked and then answered well.
I picked my wheels first, and built around them.
Its better to build your own bars after you have a solid concept, as opposed to ordering a kit then having to fight it to make it work. lol, like I did.
Bar length is absolutely critical, as it aids in determining instant center and pinion angle, and lift, etc.
The angle of the upper bars, is very important too.
Then with bag over axle, wheel size , amount of lift required to clear the wheels for raised driving etc. as lift is more limited without lever advantage.
The driveshaft will also slide in and out, when the axle goes up and down it also moves forward and back.
I learned not to use a heim joint at every point like FBI sells, or you get some side play , its minor , but tell a guy that after his 20s take a bite out of the sides of his box. lol
This was an early concept I was going with, it evolved of course as I learned more from Max.
I did shorter lower bars cuz I wanted similar mounting points on the frame.
I was talking about sorting out the frame first cuz yer 4 link mounting points are on it so it absolutly has everything to do with it.
I just started to scratch the surface, but its all about making a safe reliable ride, everyone can be proud of.
There are some good principles that must be employed to allow a person the chance to do the best job he can.
Ride height , and dropped height, wheel size, and expected lift, and the concept of instant center, are the things I had to figure out before I could do anything as far as picking the 4 link mounting positions went, then to figure out how my wheel size was going to offset axle height, plus, that would determine how high of a C notch was required, and how much box was to be sacrificed, and all the while knowing where your pinion angle is at.
Max makes some good points there in the aformentioned article, its posted on ssm by seth, twisted minis. From there a good conversation with biomax himself breaks out and a lot of good questions were asked and then answered well.
I picked my wheels first, and built around them.
Its better to build your own bars after you have a solid concept, as opposed to ordering a kit then having to fight it to make it work. lol, like I did.
Bar length is absolutely critical, as it aids in determining instant center and pinion angle, and lift, etc.
The angle of the upper bars, is very important too.
Then with bag over axle, wheel size , amount of lift required to clear the wheels for raised driving etc. as lift is more limited without lever advantage.
The driveshaft will also slide in and out, when the axle goes up and down it also moves forward and back.
I learned not to use a heim joint at every point like FBI sells, or you get some side play , its minor , but tell a guy that after his 20s take a bite out of the sides of his box. lol
This was an early concept I was going with, it evolved of course as I learned more from Max.
I did shorter lower bars cuz I wanted similar mounting points on the frame.
I was talking about sorting out the frame first cuz yer 4 link mounting points are on it so it absolutly has everything to do with it.
I just started to scratch the surface, but its all about making a safe reliable ride, everyone can be proud of.