mazdalade b2200

IF YOUR GONNA BE BAGGED YOUR BAR IS YOUR RIDE HEIGHT SO YOU WONT NEED THE BLOCKS I HAVE SEEN LINK BARS BOLT TO THE REAREND BUT I WOULD REPLACE THOSE WITH WELD ONS AT A LATER DATE.

The lowers should work fine I wouldn't use blocks with it though. You should really get some new tabs and just weld it on.

well see it has like the lower bag bracket welded behind the part where the blocks and axle go to i just dont dont wanna dump alot of money into it and on the 4-link i got it was used and dont know what it came off off but it has like the paint rubbed off on where they had a lowering block and on the link kit has a center pin to center the axle i can just eliminate the block and it will bolt into the axle flush?? any info would be greatly appreciate it like i said before im basically flyin blind here im doing everything my self and have know help or advisor around to tell me this way is the right way i know its custom and all but any help i really appreciate

anyone know about the escalade wheels clearing in the rear want the frame on the ground im running the fuzion zri 205/40/17 my truck is a SE-5 and I DONT HAVE 4x4 SHEET METAL do i just cut the inner lil lip off on the bed???? thanks again

which eskies?

im assuming the same ones on page 1 of this thread..........

yah the 17inch ones

well since the crank snout broke off decided to throw in the indash and move it up under the a/c vents

sorry for it bein blurry dvd was playin when i took the pic

with it like that make sure you do not have the heat on blowing on the back of the screen LOL

yeah really dont need heat in florida but yeah i know what ur sayin i got a bigger problem than the heat my crank snout broke off

lil update motor rebuilt still gotta put it in went ahead and bought a header and also polished out the valve cover motor goin in this weekend and then start on the rear setup got all the stuff just wanna get it back on the road heres some pics