B2000 valve ticking

Hey guys, just bought a whole new head. New cam, valves, springs, the whole deal. Got everything set and 100% to spec and runs amazing. Except for this damn valve ticking! I have every arm set to .0120 which from what i could find is OEM spec.... does anyone know of any reason it could be doing this? Should i try .011?

oh and ive even switched to 10w-40 from 10w-30 to try and help. it did slightly but still not to where it should be :/

I have mine set to .07 on the intake and .08 on the exhaust

I'm assuming by it being a B2000, you've got the mechanical rockers still in there?

I did do the mechanical lifter swap on mine.

And no tickin at all with it?

If I had the right cam there would be. I have the hydrochloric cam with the solid lifters. Why the duration and lift is the same between to two the run up on the solid cam is different than on the hydrochloric. So I have a slight tick from that but it is so faint I can barely hear it. No amount of adjusting will get rid of mine.

awesome i set mine to .08 all around and problem solved! Thanks a ton!

Odd. I'm having the same issue now that my head gasket is complete. I'll try .008 as well and see where that gets me.

When using a feeler gauge, do you guys usually let it slide in and out with no resistance, a little, or a lot? Do you tighten with it between the rod and valve and pull it out after tightening?

I haven't had to adjust valves on a Mazda as mine is a B2200. But on the old VWs we tighten to feel a little resistance, and then re-check once the locking nut is fully tightened. Or can try to see if 0.001 inch larger does not fit through.

When I do mine I do no leave the gauge in. If you over tighten it could distort the gauge and mess it up. I put it in and get a fell for where its at then go from there. All stock B2200's do not need adjusting. If your like me and have done a rocker arm swap then you will have to adjust them.