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Mazda 2.0L \  b2000 clutch prob

b2000 clutch prob

Mazda 2.0L Mazda Engine Mazda Tech
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replies 23
following 5
 
fearce   +1y
ok guy i have a 85 b2000 its brown. so here is the thing. the other day i bought it from a guy and notice the brake was not good. the guy said the back or the front needed to be bleed because he changed them(found out he was lieing after i took it home) so anyway a friend of mine end up driving the truck to the house and had no prob with it.(he is a prob driver on the clutch) anyway that same night my grand mothers friend came over to see about the truck since he claim to drive stick for years. so i did and he backed it up into the ditch so it got pulled out but now the clutch acts very weird when drovin did a test drive around the street and the gear got stuck where it couldnt be placed end neutrul and in return hit a porch and busted the right signal light. so i been pissed for a while anyway the clutch was able to pop back up after be stuck and not letting the gear shift. a few people said that the clutch has to be replaced but its not slipping it only got stock 1 or 2 times after that even and made a grind sound.. another person said the clutch needs to be ajusted.. any ideas friends? and sorry for long sentence
fearce   +1y
anybody gonna respond?
jenko   +1y
Crikey, that's a mouthful!
Get under the vehicle and check for broken mounts or bent/misaligned drive shaft.
Check to see if your clutch slave/master/line is leaking or not.
If one friend (a good driver) says he drove it fine then another (a bad drive) drove it into a ditch then I'd look for damage as opposed to a worn clutch.
A leaking clutch system (not the clutch itself) will fall to the floor with no "weight/feel" or when depressed will slowly engage as it loses pressure in the line/piston (if it still gets some pressure in the line but then bleeds off for whatever reason).
Check these things, if you find something or suspect something, take a picture and post it up.
Also be patient for responses, it's something for nothing
fearce   +1y
also note guys the car starts with out my foot being on the clutch is this good or bad?
jenko   +1y
depends if it's in gear or not at the time.
not all of them have a switch on the clutch, mine doesn't.
have you had a look underneath yet?
find anything?
fearce   +1y
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fearce   +1y
sorry for the late response guys.. so i went to oreilys and i was explain this to the guy and he said my wheel bearing ain't out so it leaves the master and slave cylinder and the rod that engages for the car to go or not or the lines
Cusser   +1y


Fearce: if the guy behind the counter at O'Reillys was a REAL mechanic, how come he's not working doing that and making 4 times the $$$ ????

I'm just saying take whatever "information" from such sources with a grain of salt.
sfls1   +1y
No 1, these clutches arent adjustable.

No 2, as Mr Jenko stated check the master / slave on the clutch, they are famous on these to go out. if you have no clutch it will scrub loudly when engine is running, but will shift between gears when engine is off. my .02 is change both master and slave and bleed it clean.

No 3, no 2 can be intermittent one pedal stroke will be fine the next nothing. just fyi
jenko   +1y
Well can't tell much from the photos but at least nothing is obviously wrong
So we're still going with the clutch slave cylinder (though check the master too).

Since I didn't see either in the photos do you know where they are etc?
(or I wasn't looking closely enough, lol )

What does a wheel bearing have to do with the clutch?
There is a throw out bearing down there....

Anywho, give the clutch system a bleed (nipple on slave on side of bell housing), see if it improves.
Failing that pull it off and check it out.
Mine started leaking past a seal and it was being a pain in the arse, gave it a clean and she was sweet as again.... I think that was this truck.... so long ago now