b2000 not firing PLEASE HELP

Did you give cab+riders suggestion a go to check for spark?
If you have spark then it'll be timing.
If you don't you can go backwards from there.
It's all mechanical timing so you have less to worry you.
Are you on your second distributor now or are you repeating that it's new?

Is it auto or manual?
Question for everyone else, does the manual have a clutch switch for starting?

It sounds like it's probably just 1 little thing causing mischief.

But do what cab+riders suggested, that'll show whether you have spark at all and we can go from there.

Another thing to really look at since it seems related to the last thing you did when it ran for a while. Check the wiring between the - (negative side symbol) of the coil and the distributor related wires. Maybe a loose or broken wire but not showing visually.

Also some of the parts you listed to test with a multi-meter are not part of your engine unless the 2.0 engine is from a Kia.

When you swapped the distributor was it a complete unit?

As i originally said, im getting no spark. Its not timing
And i know this. I repeated that its a new
Distrubutor my bad. Its a manual tranny.

Uhm, im unsure if it has the clutch switch
Or not, where would it be and how do you
Test it??

So about the coil wires..
The guy before me replaced the
Coil and im unsure if he put the correct
Wires on the "+" and "-" posts respectively.
Any ideas, descriptions or pictures
Of the mazdas coil with the wires on
The posts (which wires go on what side?)
Would be awesome.

No its not a kia engine its the mazda engine
Im just not very technologically savvy and
Tried coming up with possible suspected
Problems to do a process of elimination on.
Which i still dont know which components
To test or how i honestly think its an ignition
Switch, crankshaft position sensor, ICM, or
Incorrect wires going to the coils "+" and "-".

The distributor was whole, minus the wiring.

Thanks for the help Jenko and CAB+RIDER,
You guys are awesome!!

Can you post pictures of the coil and the distributor? It would be good to see the colors on the wiring.

Does the distributor have a condensor attached on the side of the housing?

If your engine turns as you start it up it's not a clutch start switch problem.

If you have no spark out of the coil tower then you need a multi-meter to check for 12 volts at the + side of the coil terminal with the key at the on position.

If no voltage is present you need to check your ignition switch if it's faulty.

There's a few other things to check but do this first and get back to Jenko and I.

Okay so my coil is getting 12v to the + side so I ruled out the ignition switch?

So this is weird:
I took the distributor out and as it touched my engine on the way out, I noticed it
arc'd out the engine, and tested the voltage on the BODY of the distributor, it had
12v running through the whole thing!!! how weird is that, what could possibly cause this?

yes if by condenser on the distributor you mean the little black box held on by one little screw with a black wire coming out of it, then yes it has one?

Anyways, I took the distributor apart to find that the pickup assembly (part that plugs into the Ignition Control Module) was a bit melty. So I ordered a new ICM and pickup assembly (comes with the wires that go to the coil).

But before I put those in, how can I avoid frying it again?

I thought it was weird that the whole distributor had 12v running through it.
What can cause the pickup on the ICM to burn out like that?
I don't want it to happen again

O
Thanks so much guys!

Okay so my coil is getting 12v to the + side so I ruled out the ignition switch?

So this is weird:
I took the distributor out and as it touched my engine on the way out, I noticed it
arc'd out the engine, and tested the voltage on the BODY of the distributor, it had
12v running through the whole thing!!! how weird is that, what could possibly cause this?

yes if by condenser on the distributor you mean the little black box held on by one little screw with a black wire coming out of it, then yes it has one?

Anyways, I took the distributor apart to find that the pickup assembly (part that plugs into the Ignition Control Module) was a bit melty. So I ordered a new ICM and pickup assembly (comes with the wires that go to the coil).

But before I put those in, how can I avoid frying it again?

I thought it was weird that the whole distributor had 12v running through it.
What can cause the pickup on the ICM to burn out like that?
I don't want it to happen again

O
Thanks so much guys!

Also, coil had 12v to the + post, but didn't have spark coming out the coil wire to the cap?????

And what year mazda b2000s can I get parts from? Mine is an 86, is it 85-88??
thanks guys and gals

And what year mazda b2000s can I get parts from? Mine is an 86, is it 85-88??
thanks guys and gals

Okay since you didn't post any pictures of the distributor or the coil can you provide an inventory of what wire colors are on the:

+ side of the coil
- side of the coil
Distributor wire colors

It will help me compare what I have on the Haynes manual and the 1988 shop manual I have for a B2200 since there are some similarities in the engine parts and possibly the wiring.

Note that there is a 12 volt feed from the + side of the coil to the distributor which is what caused the spark you encountered when you removed the distributor housing.