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Mazda 2.0L \  throttle issues

throttle issues

Mazda 2.0L Mazda Engine Mazda Tech
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replies 16
following 3
 
evan_w   +1y
Hey guys, Just got an '87 b2000 2.0L and the guy before me took the carb apart and didnt put it back together correctly. The throttle cable is working fine but the arm on the carb only gives me about 50% of total movement. (meaning, i can only put the pedal down halfway)

could anyone be so kind as to give me some pictures of the arm on their carburetor?
Thanks!
axel breaker earl   +1y
Here ya go!

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You just wanted to see the "arm", right?

Just messing with ya.......here is the complete carb.......yours could be different if the previous owner swapped to a Weber carb........most will do that if they have trouble with the stock feedback carb.

Let us know what your carb is so we can help you better also.

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Some linkage shots.....carb is removed and is upside down in these photos.

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evan_w   +1y
Wow!! Thanks so much! Those are exactly what I needed.

Quick unrelated note. Which vaccuum hoses are plugged, what hose goes to that diaphragm over by where the throttle cable hooks up, and where does the hose from the rotor/spark plugs go?

Carb is stock Nikki. Same as yours. What are your idle adjustments?

Lots of questions!! Thanks so much though
axel breaker earl   +1y
The hoses that are plugged in my pics are the ones that hook up to the air cleaner when it is installed........there are 4 of them total I believe.

The hose that connects to the diaphragm by the throttle cable is the "Idle-Up" diaphragm that increases the idle when the A/C compressor engages. That hose on the diaphragm runs over to the pass. fender to one of the vacuum switches and when the A/C compressor engages, that switch opens to let a vacuum signal "pull" on that diaphragm and that increases the idle slightly to offset the drag that the A/C compressor puts on the engine when it's idling.

You must be talking about the "Vacuum Advance" that is mounted on the distributor. It is routed a little strangely........look at these pics and follow the white marked vacuum hoses....

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evan_w   +1y
I think I may have found my problem. The yellow hose, white hose, and black hose are switched around. I had nothing to go by when putting them on there since the guy that had the truck before me took them all off!

You are a lifesaver!
evan_w   +1y
Well. Still having issues. Getting tired yet?! Haha

Switched the hoses around to the correct order.

1. High- unnadjustable idle. Vaccuum leak?

2. Reeeeeally rich condition. Black smoke out tailpipe. I'm really not sure how to fix that. I turn the mixture screw either way and it doesn't affect the smoke.

3. Rough idle sounds like tractor?

Thanks!
chaserjohndoe   +1y
all 3 symptoms usually happen with a vacuum leak.
check your egr gasket, and carb gasket.

had all those and then some when I switched to a Weber, made a bad egr block off plate,and the carb spacers weren't straight.
axel breaker earl   +1y
You may need to pull the carb off and rebuild it or at least take it apart and clean it good........keep in mind that these have an electronic fuel mixture solenoid and if it is bad, then it will need to be replaced. It is operated by the ECU and if all of the sensors that report to the ECU are not giving the correct info, then the ECU will go into "Limp Mode" where it will default to an overly rich condition to keep from damaging the engine if the mixture was too lean.

You said the carb was pulled apart before by the previous owner.......that fuel mixture solenoid has an O-ring at the top & bottom of its body......they seal it to the air horn and the mid section of the carb when it is all together.......my bet is the lower O-ring (seals to the mid section of carb) is either damaged or missing and causing the carb to "flood" inside of it. Basically you need to do some internal carb investigation.

Go slow and lay it all out on a table when you pull it apart......take pics as you pull items off the carb and that way you will know how it goes together again........that is if the previous owner actually put it back together correctly!

Post some pics here as your doing it and we can steer you along with it.
evan_w   +1y
Okay was suspecting vaccuum leak.

Now that I think about it. I don't remember there being a gasket on the egr valve, will get one tomorrow. I'll also check the carb gaskets.

Is there a certain way to check for vaccuum leaks on these trucks? I found myself spraying carb cleaner at all hoses, and at the carb base and intake manifold. All to no change. Don't know where else to look.

Thanks so much
evan_w   +1y
@Earl

I rebuilt the carb last week and everything seemed to be in order. I adjusted the float to spec as well and it is just at the bottom of the sight glass (where I was told it needed to be)

The solenoid you were talking about is clipped. As well as the solenoid on the right side of the carb (as you're facing the firewall) I attached some pics. Keep in mind. These are before I rerouted the vaccuum lines so they're all screwed up!

If needed I can get more pics per request.