water coming out from under the valve cover

True short distance driven vehicles, especially in cold weather, can develop discolored oil and show moisture inside the valve cover.

Is it too late to start the truck? In a vehicle with a small head gasket leak, with the radiator filled to the max, there will be bubbles coming out of the radiator while it runs, like when you drain and fill with antifreeze. Trapped air escaping from the cavities in the system. A blown head gasket leak will continue to emit bubbles of compressed fuel mix, never stopping. A severely blown gasket or cracked head will be violent fuel eruption from the uncapped radiator.

Something to try before the tear down would be a stop leak product. If it worked, it would give time to saves money for the parts, and the weather will improve.

Naw the truck still starts and drives its just the bubbles coming out of the valve covers that worry me

Where "out of the valve covers"?
Are you having water disappear from the radiator or "boil overs" out the radiator overflow without temp gauge pegged out?

Yep its doing as soon as the temp gauge starts to move until then nothing but as soon as it starts to warm up it starts doing it

What is it, or which it? Where is it doing what it does when it does what it does?

The water starts coming out from under the valve cover (at lest that's what it looks like to me )

I think a picture would be worth a thousand words. Can you post a picture of where the bubbling is occuring, preferably a somewhat closeup.

This must be the 'picture is worth a thousand words' time, load one showing the leak, maybe a series of them(progression).

Definitely.

On these Mazda engines, the smoke at start-up almost ALWAYS is indicative of worn or very dirty oil control rings.

You can have the head completely rebuilt and put it back on the engine, and still have the very same smoke at start-up. For some reason these engines will become "dirty" around the piston skirt sides where the wrist pin is inserted into the pistons......as well as the oil control rings. The upper & lower oil control rings (on each side of the expander ring) do not have much "tension" built into them, simply because they are so thin, really......and when the engine has plenty of miles on it, or has been overheated previously, these rings lose whatever little tension they had and actually stay bound-up inside the ring groove in the piston.

In other words, the oil control rings don't "stick out" past the surface of the piston like they did when the oil control rings and piston grooves were clean and new.......therefore letting the oil that is being splashed/squirted onto the cylinder walls get pushed up into the top of the cylinder and into the combustion chamber.....WHEN THE ENGINE IS COLD!

As the engine gets warmed up, the oil control rings expand, and protrude beyond the piston sides surface as they are supposed to, and consequently the oil burning slows down dramatically.

I know it is hard to believe, but time and time again, I have pulled a cylinder head off one of these trucks, pulled the engine apart, cleaned the original pistons, installed new rings on the original pistons, put the engine back together, installed the OLD HEAD, and the engine doesn't smoke AT ALL!!! NONE!!

Proof that the rings were the culprit. All else was the same.

I have been tempted to take a smoker at start-up and pull the engine apart, an ONLY CLEAN the pistons & rings. Then put it back together with the original rings! I would be willing to bet, just the ring groove & piston cleaning would stop MOST of the smoke! Of course, with a set of new rings being $50.00 or so, it would be foolish to not replace them.........but just the cleaning (so the rings would do as they were intended to do) would probably get rid of 90% of the start-up smoke.

Believe me, I have cured plenty of these little Mazda engines by just cleaning them up inside, and installing new bearing, rings, and oil pumps.......without doing the first bit of machine work on them.......IF, they had no mechanical damage to them......and they are good for 100,000 plus more miles of oil burning free miles! I have one such animal in my 1989 red B2200 regular cab truck. The metal that these engine blocks are built from is phenomenal!! Chances are, your engine (even with 250,000 or more miles on it) still has a hint of honing marks in the cylinder walls.

Here is a close-up of a slightly dirty 200,000 mile stock B2200 piston......this engine was in great shape really, as I have seen MUCH worse!








I do have dirtier pictures if you want to see them!

Anyway.......just wanted to add my 2 cents here.......sorry for the long drawn-out post!