new motor overheating problems?? need information

hello fellow BSCENERS i have a 89 mazda b2200 2.2.L F2 block motor bought from Japan Engines out in Cali bought from them because of warranty and it was more money to get my original motor rebuilt so just went with them ok lemme get to the problem put the motor in parts listed are NEW (((water pump, thermostat (195 degree) Fan Clutch original radiator new hoses ok motor runs fine but stays usually around middle or high middle of the temp gauge gauge needle is straight across pointing towards driver side mirror if that makes sense i donno if this is where it supposed to be on a new motor zero miles now i know your going to say radiator but my original motor ran very very cold with same radiator same degree thermostat PLEASE HELP ANY INFORMATION WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED

i also ran thewater hose threw the thermostat out the bottom ran water threw the radiator too radiator clean well what i can see threw the radiator cap with a flashlight PLEASE HELP also motor has headers and webber carb the 36dev or whatever

Be sure to purge the air out of the system. I usually let it heat up, and then I loosen the upper radiator hose a little, (right there at the radiator) and let the steam/air out. The pump cannot move air/steam. There is probably a better way to do it, but this has always worked for me. Be careful and where gloves/goggles so you do not scald yourself!!

Purging out ALL the air is important on these vehicles, and a little tricky. Either keep topping up for a few days (after it cools), or jack up the front of the truck and let the engine run, with radiator cap off.

All said is spot on.In short when I do a antifreeze drain/refill I leave the rad cap off and run engine for 15-20 min and water will drop down some and once engine hits normal temps the fluid will start to overflow at rad cap and I place towel around the neck to catch then cap it.Air will always escape thru the highest point the rad cap!Try simpley leaving cap off make sure your resevoir is btwn low-high and run at idle heat on high fan speed.This may take two or three times to clear trapped air,but most of the time less than a half hour.Placing some cardboard in front of rad speeds the process.I use a stant vent lever radiator cap,and this def helps release air quick and pressure.This is a good buy and suggest getting one.Under ten bucks or close to.Sorry for the book but needed to elaborate.

awesome thanks everyone for the help maybe thats what it is im diff not purging the air out so will try thanks for all the help

also would this matter i made a aluminum block off plate to block my EGR valve off the intake due to having a cleaner engine bay because im running a webber?? coolant doesnt flow threw there right exhaust does??

well did what everyone said still running on the hot side i checked my thermostat its working properly still dont understand my heat is working perfect truck always had good heat im lost i dont even know how to explain this to a repair shop if i where to take it in which i dont want to because ima get ripped royally

i took the thermostat out and ran it for about 30 min drove the truck still running on the hot side took a lil longer but it still got there

Have you cleaned radiator find out really good ! Sounds crazy I know! But have to ask!