new motor overheating problems?? need information

i havent but but all this within a month or so my truck was drivin with the og motor and i pulled bought a new one and put all back less then a month or so and its running triple where my original motor was running

but lemme ask this it dont hurt soo ima do a flush i was reading on here dont waste ur time or money with the flushes at parts houses people been using lime away the stuff to clean lime scale and stuff around the house correct??? i dont want to ruin this motor or void the warranty

also i dont know if this helps but i have a 1986 mazda b2000 and with a 2.0L engine runs perfect temp gauge barely moves off cold i swapped radiators and put it in the truck thats running hot filled with new coolant water and drove it around same thing started to run on the hott side im thinking (because i have the no luck i dont even have bad luck because that would mean i have some kind of luck)) something on the motor side not my coolant side what are some of the problems that could occur on the motor side???? keep in mind i replaced hoses thermostat water pump the truck doesnt smoke no water in the oil so i donno

I replaced my own radiator 2 years ago with a 2-row model like the automatic ones used. Mine would rise in temperature after a while, too, especially in 115F heat and mountain upgrades on the highway. Great now, and Arizona too (Cab Plus and AC running).

What did u.do.or was it the radiator??

How's it run ? Good ? Sluggish? Try checking timing!

Yes, the old radiator was bad; OK around town, but couldn't use on highways. So if you do buy a new radiator, GO 2-ROW !!!

Make sure the fan is attached to the clutch in the right place, ( back of the hub not forward) and facing the right way. I am just saying!!, because I had issues when I mounted my new fan clutch. The blades have to be able to exhaust behind the shroud.
(I think it was Cusser. or Axel Earl who helped me with that one.)

My gauge sits at that same point if I am sitting at a light for a long time.., and that is with a single row radiator.

Ok to answer 2 items.YES the lime away is perfectly safe I can vouch 1st hand and ran it thru my brand NEW radiater in 2010 to clear the block out and NEW heater core.Next my truck never ran hot,about a 1/4 up from the lowest bar above cold but heat sucketh and with a 24yr old rad,htr core go figure.I went with a auto zone spectra(I think single row) better heat flow,plus truck warmed up quick as @#$! in cold am and never goes above the same as above on even days here when it was like 95 in nc.Since you have all new parts aside from the radiator and heater core I would at least swap to a new rad and flush the system.I drained refilled with distilled water and one bottle of lime away and ran for 15 min heat on fan hi,drain refill just water and leave rad cap of until it bubbles over,then cap.Then I refilled and flushed with clean water again 2nd time to ensure it was crystal clean and it was.Then final coolant,distilled water mix and done.USE distilled it is better than tap(city and even well water) and I have a wellwter.

yeah truck runs good plenty of power i also changed out the coolant temp sensor new radiator cap and lower thermostat 185 instead of the 195 still running between the hot and cold more towards the hot side tried flushing the radiator just came out rusty water called local radiator shop they want 130 plus tax to clean rod out and re-seal radiator so thats a no go looking on ebay found all aluminum radiator think ima go with that same company i bought my 3 row all welded aluminum radiator for my stroked 383 1978 monte carlo and hell there cheaper than the stock replacement which is plastic tanks at autozone or advance auto so ima run with that will let everyone know how the results come out

can u please post a pic im not understanding i think i got mines right