Electrical problem? Stalling and no spark.

Hi, this problem has been on going for a while, only happens once every couple weeks. If my truck stalls for whatever reason it will not start right away. It will then start as normal if given a good 5 hours to sit. This time it will not start at all. (Been two days)

I hear these may be the symptoms of an ignition control module slowly failing.

There is no spark at the engine when it will not start. I checked the voltage at the coil and it is reading 2.75V. Is this too low? The cap, rotor and plug wires are all new within the last 5,000km.

I am unsure what to replace, through all of my research and help from people I believe it is either the ignition switch, ignition control module or maybe a wiring problem?

Any help is greatly appreiciated

Might be time for a new ignition switch, check Rock Auto they have the switch for $90 there is also a 5% discount code, just do a forum search, I just replaced mine, was pretty easy to do with the help of the forum tips..

Yeah, the electrical parts of the ignition switches on these are only good for 15 to 20 years....I replaced mine once.

You should have 12 volts going to the coil. That might be your problem. You are carb'd right?

Does it ever stall shortly after a cold start? Or does it always take 20 or 30 minutes or more of running... i.e. something getting hot?

Hi, yes it is carbed. And yes it has done this while it is cold just after starting. Also died off while driving. There is no consistency I cannotfind any triggers. Other than it normally starts when it is cold and early in the morning. Though it still won't start when it is very cold in the evening or afternoon.

It will also not start with 12v run to the positive of the coil.

I'm assuming that this just started happening on its own, not after you did something to the truck.

So engine spins fine (regular speed) but sometimes does not start, and when hot-wiring to the positive terminal of the coil still no starting?

And spraying in aerosol starting fluid into the carb or intake then holding pedal down and still won't start, even for a few seconds? If all that, what I'd check next is the pick-up and ignotor inside the distributor.

Since it runs sometimes, rules out timing belt being broken.

Sorry my post got erased some how.. Let me retype.

No, the truck had nothing done other then the plug wires, cap a.d rotor which were like I said about 5k ago.

The engine spins fine normally, it is carbed and if I let it die it will not restart. This doesn't happen all the time but when it does it won't restart for atleast 5 hours. It also has simply shut off while driving with the same result. Jumping power to the coil does nothing.

I haven't tried starting fluid, it seems to be getting fuel fine. After letting it sit for a while and attempting to start, it fires on the first revolution without even pumping the gas. If you still think its worth trying then I definitely will.

I will check the pickup and igniter in the cap (which are new) What should I look for?

Does the low voltage at the coil tell you anything?
Is the ignition switch ruled out if it won't start when power is jumped to the coil? I will replace the switch asap if that still seems like the culprit.


Thanks again

I replaced the igniton switch last night in a parking lot. It seems to have worked as far as I can tell but I am wondering about the little sensor with the button that attaches to the lock cylinder. The part I have is reversed, it was mounted on the back of the lock cylinder. It will not fit my truck, I am wondering if I should cut off my old one and swap them? What does it even do? Also my ignition cylinder is sticky now, it doesnt auto recoil from the start position and is not easy to turn. I may have messed it up but I got the truck home so I'm happy.

Any help would be great

That little sensor is to detect when the key is in the cylinder. The signal is used for the lights left on buzzer, from what i gather...I don't have that buzzer. It doesn't really do much else, it won't matter if you install it or not.
The electrical switch that you replaced has the return spring in it. That is where your stiff key motion is coming from. Mine got better after a while. you could take the switch back off and work it by hand with a flat head screw driver. Lubricating it isn't easy, most lubricants will short out your new switch, taking that switch apart is a bad idea...unless you are a watch repair professional.