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Mazda 2.2L \  Timing talk....

Timing talk....

Mazda 2.2L Mazda Engine Mazda Tech
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replies 11
following 3
 
magoo13183   +1y
So I have still been fighting with the timing on the truck. I thought I had everything correct, but after having someone with a little more mechanical aptitude come look at it this is the conclusion I have come to.... with the number 1 piston at tdc, the 1 on my cam gear is not pointing straight up. Its about 4-5 teeth past. So its my understanding that I need to make sure the crank marks line up, which they do.... I then need to undo the timing belt and re-line the cam gear back up. Also I cannot post the pic but I seen a pic posted on here where there are dimples on the distributor gear and shaft that need to be lined up... I also read these trucks run best with 6 btdc... I have finally got everything else taken care of and now the problem is definitely the timing. Any step by step instruction, what to do in what order and what not to do would be greatly appreciated.I also know the motor hits tdc on intake and exhaust cycle and I cannot tell the difference. I've got a new timing belt, carb, cap, rotor, everything. Also weber 32/36 w/ pacesetter header. New ignition switch, coil, pick up coil, ignition control module. I just need to set the timing... correctly. All of it. Motor not running now but yes I have spark and fuel... thank you...
Cusser   +1y
Set the camshaft timing first, then check/set the ignition timing.



magoo13183   +1y
Thanks, I actually have those bookmarked.... my problem is the belt was put on incorrectly. When I thought everything was right and lined up the #1 piston was not fully up yet... basically at tdc my cam gear is like 5 teeth too far clockwise of where it needs to be. I've heard if you pull the valve cover pan and both rockers for #1 are loose than you are at tdc. So from there I would have to undo the belt, then line up the crank timing marks. Then get the cam gear in the correct place and finish belt.

And again I still cannot find the picture, but there is a good oneof the dimples that need to be lined up on the distributor. Once you slide this in (#1 at just below 9o'clock on the rotor), then you should be running and then fine tune to ?6 btdc correct? Am I missing anything?

I've just been fighting with this forever and once I think I've got one thing figured out another pops up... I've got to get this running so I can leave my crappy job. Any mechanics in the 850? But seriously thanks for all the help. I couldnt have gotten this far without yalls help and I promise to post pics this weekend...
Cusser   +1y


Yes for #1 TDC and the crankshaft pulley lined up, you could pull the valve cover and ensure that neither valve for #1 is pressed down (open), as one would be for #3 TDC. One can also use a plastic straw inserted through the spark plug hole as the engine is turned to approach that crankshaft pulley notch. Yes, get the timing belt correctly installed first, at that TDC #1 position.

Then with engine at #1 TDC I'd insert the distributor with the rotor pointing in that 9 o'clock position like you said, and the bolt in the middle of the adjustment arc, to get started, then set the timing to 6 BTDC.
mazdatweaker_2   +1y
1. Set your crank at TDC. (1+4)

2. Using a small prybar and a 14 mm wrench, loosen and move the idler bearing to the left to remove tension from timing belt, then tighten the bolt.

3. Loosen cam belt, slide off belt and set cam at matchmarks for #1.

4. Replace belt so all slack is on sprung idler bearing (left) side of belt.

5. Loosen idler bolt to draw all slack out from belt. You may have to move cam slightly counterclockwise to do this.

6. Tighten idler securing bolt.

7. Rotate engine with crank bolt two revolutions to verify all matchmarks.

8. Roll crankshaft clockwise to 6 btdc.

9. Verify distributor reluctor and ignition module points are pointing at each other (rotor @9 pm) and then tighten distributor hold_down bolt. If not aligned, pull distributor up enough to allow rotation of rotor arm to correct orietation. It may be off one tooth otherwise.

10. You're done.
Cusser   +1y



Crappo - I set with my rotor at 9 am. But since we don't understand Daylight Savings Time here in Arizona (we're too STOOOOOPID) I think it works out the same.

The formula is something like "Time in pm" - years without Daylight Savings Time - Arizona Governors Impeached - STOOOOOPID Arizona governors = "Time in am"
magoo13183   +1y
I have no painted marks on my crank pulley, but I do have a notch, and the 0-10 on the timing belt cover.... so in order to have the crank at tdc to I align that notch at 12 oclock or at thezero on the timing belt cover? I just recently followed all thesteps above and evrryeverything went together beautifully, but if I lined the crank up wrong that would explain everything. I've read other places that the notch on the crank needs to be at 12 oclock. Last question is that the spring in there isn't needed, just a failsafe? I think I rremember reading that on here somewhere....
magoo13183   +1y
I have no painted marks on my crank pulley, but I do have a notch, and the 0-10 on the timing belt cover.... so in order to have the crank at tdc to I align that notch at 12 oclock or at thezero on the timing belt cover? I just recently followed all thesteps above and evrryeverything went together beautifully, but if I lined the crank up wrong that would explain everything. I've read other places that the notch on the crank needs to be at 12 oclock. Last question is that the spring in there isn't needed, just a failsafe? I think I rremember reading that on here somewhere....
Cusser   +1y
The spring is to apply tension until the bolt is tightened. So after the bolt is tightened the spring really doesn't do anything.

Analogous to a belt-tightening bolt: use to snug up the belt, then the real mounting bolts hold it.
magoo13183   +1y
Well thats good. It wasnt even connected on one side anyway, I applied tension to it manually. What about the crank pulley? Without any paint marks and only one notch how do I tell if the crank is at tdc? I had put it at zero (on the timing belt cover) then after setting cam to tdc and reinstalling belt put it to 6 btdc.... but if the notch needs to be at 12 oclock to be at tdc then I am still off. Granted it sounds better. It is spitting and sputtering and not backfiring anymore. I'm sorry guys but I truly am mechanically ignorant. Plus I'm working o something that someone else has done and its been sitting for years. I just hope I have the crank wrong cuz that can be easily fixed but if not then I've got something else going on and with all thesstuff I've replaced I dont know what else to do.