b2.6 liter stumbles on acceleration any1 know Y?

In this picture you can see that in that group of traces, one of them is broken.......the person that "fixed" this computer, simply connected a small gauge wire on the backside of the circuit board (can't see it until you flip the board over) that led from one end of that trace to the other, to complete the circuit for that particular trace.



Your going to have to get the black stuff off of the traces and see if they are damaged........and you'll have to scrape at it a little since the board is covered with Humiseal which is a sealer for the circuit board.

Here's my board cleaned



No known traces broken down near c103

The capacitor is seated correctly.

I'll follow your board to see the recommended connections

Mine stalls for a second when shifting into second and third (when im pulling the clutch out and giving it gas) only when cold. I doesn't do it if I tip the trottle in with some finesse but when it does it, it is jarring and loud kind of like I'm push starting it. Don't have time to check the Board right now (will check it later), but is this a different issue?

Timing is good, MAF is new-ish, cap rotor and wires are good. It has been doing this for years.

Also when cold and idle similar symptoms to the shifting one. If I hit the gas to rev it, it stalls out sputters a little and turns back over agressively (like the engine can't keep up with the quick trottle input). Slow tip in is ok though. any thoughts? same or different, maybe just because its cold?

'92 2200 EFI

If it's been doing it for years, it's probably not the ECM. But it is a good idea to take a look at anyway. You don't usually see "burn marks and melting." If there is a problem, it isn't alway obvious. You want to look for any kind of residue on the board around those caps. Sometimes it can be very faint. Snap a pictures while you have it a part and we can tell you if it's been repaired before. Again, it's probably not causing your problem, but it's good to know what what you've got.

I would try unplugging the following one at a time and see if they have any effect on your problem.

1. Idle Air Control Valve (on top of the throttle - just follow the lead coming out of it to find the connecter.)

2. Mass Airflow Sensor

I would also check the following:

1. Idle switch (on the throttle body)
There is a connecter for it between the valve cover and the fuel rail. Unplug it and then check that you have continuity between the switch lead (it will be the aft one - the truck harness is the one in front) and ground when the throttle is closed. You should not have continuity there when the throttle is NOT at idles. If these two test don't check out, then you have a problem there.

2. Check the Coolant and Air temp probes for the proper resistance.

Coolant temp probe: at 68 degrees, it should be between 2,200 and 2,700 ohms.

Air Temp Sensor: At 77 degrees, it should be 29,700 - 36,300 ohms.

3. Check the throttle position sensor. Let us know if you need the procedures

4. Check the Clutch Switch (the one at the top of the pedal travel, not the starter inhibit switch at the bottom)

When the pedal is depressed, you should have continuity. When the pedal is released, you should NOT have continuity. If you do have continuity at the top of the travel, then you need to adjust the switch, replace it, or replace the "stopper pad" on the pedal as they tend to form a depression in the center and it no longer opens the switch. This will be a pain to get to with a multimeter. You'll want some small alligator clips on your leads.

Why did you replace the MAF?

Thanks Scotch for the info!

A shop replaced the MAF many years ago because it died on me and I had to tow it into a local mechanic. They replaced it and everything was back to normal, including the same stalling/sputtering issue. They couldn't figure out that issue, so I just baby it all the time when its cold. (I still had this problem after the rebuild I did)

I think the likely culprit's are IAT sensor, IAC valve (It idles perfectly though), or idle switch, I have checked the others during my rebuild a few years back (TPS is spot on, Coolant sensor has correct resistance) and still have the same problem with those checking out OK.

Is it possible for a clutch switch to be the cause of this issue? What is it for? if not for Neutral safety switch.

Thanks again I will check it all this out this weekend.

Got the mainboard together and it was able to fire up. Ran better with less engine rocking and a rolling. Only to find it dying again.
So I looked at the spark plugs and found it carbonizing. Testing leads me back to a no spark situation. This is what I found.
A cracked coil aside from the cracked thumb nail.
This is the second time ive replaced the ignition coil. Is there a better coil out there guys?

I had dirty connections at my mass air flow sensor, causing a similar condition.
I'm glad Scotch covered that already!

Hollywood, you may want to look under that blue resistor, (which means you might have to un-solder it from the board)........those same traces that you just cleaned, run right under that "R130" resistor......and the acid flow went right under it I'm sure.

Just a thought if it is still giving you problems after you check the coil out.

Thanks Axel,

I just checked R130 and the traces under were ok. I also double checked it with the multimeter for continuity.

I looked further right of the capacitor and found burnt holes. You can see the patch work.



Hopefully this works out once I find another ignition coil.

Some of those holes in the board are just not used.......you can see them in this pic....