Running horrible--help diagnose? Please?

mine has always bumped up the idle a couple hundred rpm when in gear--normal from what I understand. No oil in coolant, and the rad wasn't very far down (topped it off last night to check). Oil is black as well no chocolate milk.

I'm wondering if the SeaFoam didn't dislodge something in the fuel system and foul an injector?

I'll get some maf cleaner run through it, and see what happens.

I think you have a bad clutch switch then. The other guy just replaced his and it no longer does that. It is probably bumping the idle up because the truck thinks it's 1) in gear (not neutral) and 2) that the clutch is engaged (when it really isn't but a bad switch is telling the computer that it is.) In a normal setup, you wouldn't be getting that extra bump up until you release the clutch - thats when you need it - when the the transmission is in gear and the clutch is engaged. I don't think that has anything to do with your larger problems though.

Did you run sea foam through the intake? The kind that fits a little straw in front of the throttle? Or was it a fuel additive/treatment? If the straw, type, where did you insert it in the system?

Also, just for kicks, you might try disconnecting the airflow meter and see how it idles and runs. How does it idle anyway?

Have you washed down the engine or anything? Moisture on distributor or ignition coil/module/condenser?

You might also check the computer. Most people expect to see "burn marks" and or the smell of something fried. Neither is the case. You'll want to look for obvious or sometimes not so obvious leakage under and around the two cylindrical capacitors. If it's been leaking a while, then it may have spread out some goo around the circuit board. But if it just started, you might not even see it unless you look really close and possibly with a magnifying glass. I would check that out as well.

Fuel additive on the SeaFoam, not washed the engine in a year or so, though I will check and see if the distributor is dirty/damp at all.

I'll also check the computer- inside passenger foot well right?

Yep, that's where it is - passenger kick panel. Four screws to take the cover off.

Your white smoke is still an indication of a bad head gasket. I'd want to check the compression if and when you can and see what you have.

Here are a few more things to check.

PCV Valve - pull it from the valve cover and see if you are getting vacuum on it while still connected to the intake manifold.

Breather Tube - This is hose that comes out of the back side of the intake pipe and ducks under the resonator box and into the valve cover. It gets hard and brittle from the heat and will crack or break, especially when removing it - be careful. Might be a good idea to get a new one from the dealer before even checking this one since it breaks so easily.

Idle switch - Check continuity. If bad, it could cause your computer to think you're still at idle.

Fuel Filter - although usually if clogged, it will cause more problems at higher rpms than lower.

Coolant Temp Sensor - Check resistance to specs

Check cap & rotor. Another member recently had moisture getting into the distributor and it would behave similar to yours until it was warmed up and the moisture burned off.

Check Timing

Check Coil resistance

And as previously mentioned - Fuel Injectors

sorry, been busy with house construction.

Pulled maf sensor connector off. No noticable change in how it runs.

If I don't let it warm up it will sometimes grab and go like normal. today it would pulse normal then mis-fire again every once in a while.

Feels like when you have water in/bad gas, or water in the intake (happened to me when it snowed). Need to check distributor but will need light to do it, and I get off when it's mostly dark.

Cannot be the clutch switch... If it was going bad, you would not be able to crank engine.. Try cleaning the idle air control motor with brake cleaned and replace its gasket

Can't find a gasket listed for idle air control--but I can find a throttle body gasket. Guess I'll order that and do the IAC when I fix my radiator (deer played chicken with me today, and we both lost).

Have you tried unplugging the idl air control valve connecter? Did you check resistant spec on engine coolant temp probe? Also should check Air Charge Temp prove (intake manifold air temp).

Let me know if you need the specs or procedures.

Deer took out radiator, and the temporary fix of stop leak to get it moved around took out the head. See new thread about head replacement.

This brings to mind one of the greatest posts I've ever seen by Mr Axel Breaker Earl

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