threads
Page 2 of 3
Mazda Adjustable Suspension \  Four Link Setup

Four Link Setup

Mazda Adjustable Suspension Mazda Suspension Mazda Tech
views 12806
replies 25
following 14
 
bodied b2600zx (josh)   +1y
Do you really need to mount the bags to the lower bars? Why cant you mount em to the uppers? Im doin a cantilever on my b2600i and it fits wayyy better to have the arms push on the upper bars. Im having my 4 link bars setup "reverse" so they are close together at the driveshaft xmember and spread apart at the axle. So i dont see why i shouldnt mount em to the uppers
bagdb2200   +1y
You can put the bags on the upper bars. It's been done before. I think the reason most people do it on the lowers is because it keeps a lower overall height so you can still try to fit a bed floor over it if you want.
bodied b2600zx (josh)   +1y
Yea. Thats what i was thinmin. Im doin an open bed on mine so thats not an issue. And i guess if your upper bars go to the pumpkin, u couldnt have the lift comi g from the uppers. Cuz i would think the truck wouldnt ride right at all. My uppers would go to the outsides of the axle though.
thafox   +1y
i just recently purchased a bolt in 4link setup, planning on putting it in when i have the rest of the system, just wondering where your going to relocate your fuel tank? are you going to make a custom fuel tank in the bed? just looking for ideas for the future, thnx and good luck finishing your's
hunterw   +1y
i ran a suzuki samurai tank in the rear part of the frame. like where the spare tire went. it fit under the bed. and hooked up super easy. pics are in my build log somewhere lol
mazdadropped   +1y
got mine hooked up a while ago forgot about this it wasnt as hard as i thought but it is time consuming making sure everythings in proper position when its your first time doing it
lowlyfe   +1y
So to get it strait and clear up some confusion Im having, would a guy first notch the frame and build a link crossmember then remove the leaf springs, set the axle in place at a desired ride height and tack weld it to the notch, then weld on the lowers paralell with the ground and then find the instant center for the uppers and weld them on?

Also the longer the bars the better or is this just a rumour?

We are starting on my brothers truck but we're not exactly sure how to jump into it so a little help would go a long way!.
selfbuiltrods   +1y
Mark axle centerline on the frame above the axle. Make sure you clean the framerail first before you make your mark so you can weld to it. Jack the axle up to you mark and put a good tack weld on the axle so it doest move on you. Before you tack it, it's good to set pinion angle now. Install your crossmember with the driveshaft notch in it and start building you link bars. Everything in this thread about geometry and such is great info. Three links work great on our truck since we can weld to the gear housing. If your doing a true four link, for goddness sake, make sure all your bushings are parallel to the axle. If you axle is this... ------------------, your bushings need to look like this too. Not like this, -----/---\------. It is a very common mistake.
lowlyfe   +1y
I'm assuming that the axle would be tacked in at "drive height", am I correct?
tucknrimmaz   +1y
You can tack the axle where ever you want to as long is its in the travel of the suspension. Make sure the driveshaft doesnt bottom out in the tranny when the axle arcs due to the setup. The longer the bars the less the rear will arc when moved up and down. If the bags are going onto the uppers keep the bars wide on the axle. Double/ triple check everything before you finish weld your axle tabs. And if you have any questions ASK!!!!