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Mazda Engine Performance \  Turbo question

Turbo question

Mazda Engine Performance Mazda Engine Mazda Tech
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anguswilly   +1y


OK so please read my post above about the factory location for the turbo drain in the block, the 2.2 blocks (turbo and non) are all the same so they all have the boss (the casted-in spot), you might want to use that spot.
b52fighter   +1y
There is no post, if you could direct me to it that'd be great, I remember reading something on the other turbo build thread that I believe is right below this one. But I'm not 100% on that. I'm not hesitant about going directly to the pan, and if I remember correctly you said it was next to or above the oil filter? If so I believe I seen it the other night when I was routing my oil pressure line and oil feed line...
anguswilly   +1y
OK, sorry I think somehow it did not get posted -

The 2.2 blocks have a boss at the rear on the driver side - it is near the bell housing, about 1/2 way up from the pan. It is about 1" round and sticks up a bit (1/4" or so)

You can drill it out, starting with a smaller bit and working up to a bit slightly smaller than 9/16" - because you want to end up with a 9/16" hole and if you use a 9/16" bit, the hole will end up bigger - ask me how I know - drill slow (but don't break through) and then when you are ready to break through you can pack the drill bit with grease - that will catch the filings.

You can then tap it (again, pack the tap with grease) - I have done this twice and worked out great (my current truck has it done - by me)

NOW:

- The block is cast iron and if you get filings in there it'll NOT be good, so go slow AND do not break through till you are ready so almost all the filings will go outside the block - also use a strong magnet near the hole to catch them.

- Use the heaviest grease you can find.

- Do it with full oil and then after inserting the magnet into the holes after drilling and then again after tapping, rinse out with brake clean and then drain the oil.

Don't tap NPT threads too deep NO MATTER what, wether it is the pan or block or you'll be sorry.
b52fighter   +1y
Im aware of the drill a size smaller thing, usually if you use exact drill size for something it drills it over by about .002-.005 thousandths or more, depending on how sharp your drill bit is, remember im a machinist haha, ill take a look today and see if its a route I can take, as my turbo practically hugs the side of the block while I was mocking it up, inlet faces the firewall, and exhaust is towards the front, there was just enough room for the waste gate, and actually had to re clock the vaccum port because it was hitting on the block
b52fighter   +1y
Is this the boss/spud your talking about? If it is I might not be able to use it because of clearance issues, just ran out and took a picture, I'll know for sure once I get my oil lines, and get the turbo mounted for good
post photo
anguswilly   +1y
Yeah, that's the boss, if you can use it it is better but if not the pan is good to.

And yeah I remember you are a machinist but I wanted to say that just in case others read it.
b52fighter   +1y
Ahh, haha, my bad, and I'll try and use it, I'll bolt up the turbo this week and see if there's any clearance so I can or not, if not, oil pan.it is
anguswilly   +1y
You can also use a 90degree fitting - I have that now.
b52fighter   +1y

Wouldn't you want a path of least resistance for a drain? Or does the feed side help to push the oil back to the motor? No such thing as a dumb question, the gravity feed thing seems like a design flaw almost
anguswilly   +1y
As long as you have a good size then a 90 is OK, in theory you don't want a 90 but it will work just fine if you need it and also the oil feed volume is an issue on some motors but not here.

Use the factory intended turbo oil supply port (the one currently occupied by the oil sender, the sender now goes in the port above the oil filter.