Just a thought----input please

To pull the crank, you gotta drop the tranny, after that, yes, you can drop the crank. I did it on my last cab plus. Get the tranny out of the way, and you can unbolt the crank, drop it VERY, VERY slowly. I undid the pistons 1st, and pushed them UP until the rings expanded, and then let it go, once all 4 were out the way, I dropped the crank. Installing the crank was just easier, IMO. Just align the bearings, put it up, bolt it in. Now, here's the bitch. The torque specs. I was told because the Main Caps are NOW supporting the weight of the crank, to go 2 to 6 lbs over. Everyone else said bullshit, torque to spec. So, I went 2 lbs over.


For 2 weeks straight I was elbow deep in grease trying to get it going. Must have pulled the head twice a day. This POS is the MAIN reason I wont touch an F2 again, unless its pulling it out entirely, permanently.

Well....now I have two opinions. So since you hate the motors you got one you want to get rid of? Dont need a head I have that already. I may try to call the pick and pull and see.

mazdamn, thats a half ass way to do it dude. i think it would be a lot easier to put the motor on stand and do it right teh first time.

why is it half assed to do it that way? your still aligning your bearings and everything. he just said he doesnt drive it much and doesnt need it to last that long. why sink in the extra money to make it right when your not even gonna use it?






-justin

drive it much drive it a lot, a bearing off by any number of thousandths of an inch or something like that, and ull just throw it off the crank or rod and fuck some shit up. when u do something with the roatating assembly you have to use dial indicators or that plastic shit made by clevite to be sure of clearances. how can you set a crank in a block accuratley with the fuckin motor above ur head. he even said the motor wont run anymore. read a book on engine building and do it right the first time or else youll be doing it right the second time.

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Chill chill ppl. I am not willing to dump that much money in the damn thing yet. For all I know the block could already be cracked. How can I tell if I can t even turn the focker over? SO hence the used crank slapping it together to see if it is even worth doing right? It blows well I am out $50 or less and have not just spent $1500 on a motor that I would end up pulling this winter anyways. You see my goal for this year was to get it runing half ass and BAGGED. I live 3 miles from work. That would be the only place I drive it. Then this winter.... Pow add some boost and keep mileage or roar and add a 302 raw toque!!! It is a phased project. By this thing doing this I now have the option to throw it crapily and not correctly together to see if it will even run or/and buy a running bagged truck to drive daily and build the smurf mobile into a full show truck. So many options. Trust me I know that this is not the correct way and I know it will not last. But it may last long enough for me to determin what to do. Mind you I paid $250 for the whole truck. Not counting the front bag setup I just got I am only into the truck for like $450....that includes gas and food for my daughter and I when we got it 6 hours away.