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Mazda Engine General \  WEBER DGEV AND DGAV

WEBER DGEV AND DGAV

Mazda Engine General Mazda Engine Mazda Tech
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j-bird   +1y
IT was nice Talking too. good info,Thanks....LOL i already forgot your name,Sorry,I'm OLD 28) i'll check that wire Friday and see if it is 12v, hope it is. i\If not i'll find 12v. LOL
mikeyc1945   +1y
Do you want to keep as much of the emissions stuff as possible? (looks like that's where you're goin')

Most of the DGEV users are keeping the canister and the egr.

I highly recommend you follow the kit instructions and use the wire to the back of the alternator from the choke on the old carb. This is the orginal carb setup and the recommended setup from Redline.

The high altitude stuff can be eliminated completely. There's nothing to plug on it. It's a self contained system that can't be used on the new carb. The vacuum control valve can also be completely eliminated. It's also self contained and serves no purpose on the new carb. (looks like you've already done this) Be sure to cap the vacuum port on the intake manifold.

I recommned running the vacuum line from the canister going to the thermo valve under the intake manifold directly to the vacuum port on the carb and eliminate the original line going from the carb to the thermo valve. Mine ran like crap until the engine heated up when I ran it through the thermo valve. Problem solved when I took the thermo valve out of the equation. You can use the original vacuum line routing to the distributor and run the vacuum line that was on the thermo valve to the port on the new carb for the distributor or you can unplug the egr port on the new carb and run it to that port.

If you're keeping the egr valve in the system, take it off the intake manifold and clean it up. It may be plugged or partially plugged and not functioning properly. Also, there was a vacuum line that ran from the egr duty solenoid valve to the original air filter. You need to drill a hole in the bottom of the new air cleaner box, glue (JB Weld) a vacuum connector fitting into the hole, and run that vacuum line to it.

I also reworked a couple of large right angle vacuum fittings and ran the rocker cover vent to the underside of the air cleaner. The vent filter you're using may be a problem with the inspectors.

If you have an automatic or air conditioning, you'll need to eliminate the idle up circuit. The servo diaphragm is located on the intake manifold under the new carburetor where the throttle cable hooks up. Take it off and remove the vacuum line from it to the idle up solenoid. (looks like you either didn't have one or have removed it) Be sure to cap off the port where the vacuum line was connected to the solenoid.

On one of the pictures you are supporting a vacuum T connector with one finger that is located at the front of the intake manifold and only has two vacuum lines connected. There should be a vacuum line attached to this connector that runs to the ACV solenoid valve. It needs to be hooked back up. On that line there should be another T connector with a vaccum line that came from the No 1 air control valve that hung down under the original air filter. The line that came from the No 1 air control valve needs to be eliminated and the T connection capped off.

I know all this is a complicated mess but there is an excellent color coded emissions chart at . Take a look and hopefully everything will become clear.

HTH