Slappin

Well. I haven't started the truck in 2wks. checked the oil since i know it leaks. "still full" it cranked over all i heard was CLACK CLACK. like spun bearing because it has gotten louder as the rev when up... its amazing how my luck is going.. Now im going to look for another b2200 motor.. or something that is easy to swap in. i hear the FE3. but i don't want to screw with wiring issues. any other great simple drop in's.. i been searching and coming up with a head ache.

I'd offer you mine but its in worse condition, when you turn it over it sounds like the spark plugs are out. why not just rebuild yours?

I have thought about it. but.. i have only torn down transmissions

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Bulletin No.: 005/95
Issued: 3/28/95
Revised:

Category
B

Applicable Model/s:
All HLA Models

Subject:
HLA NOISE AFTER LONG STORAGE

APPLICABLE MODELS/VINS

A primary cause of HLA noise is the result of oil draining back to the crankcase during long periods of storage. Category B of the applicable workshop manual contains diagnostic information to determine if the HLA is normal or requires replacement. Instructions in the manual will be revised in the 1996 manual.

Follow this procedure to determine if the HLA requires replacement.

NOTE: Service Managers should make a reference to this bulletin in the applicable workshop manuals.

DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE

1. Check engine oil and replenish if necessary.

NOTE: If the oil is dirty or a service interval has been missed, replace the oil. Inform the customer of the need to change oil and that this is not covered under the normal vehicle warranty.

2. Run the engine to normal operating temperature.

3. Increase the idle to 2,000 - 3,000rpm and maintain this speed until HLA noise stops or 20 minutes.

NOTE: Do not exceed 20 minutes. Currently the workshop manual states 10 minutes, this will be revised in the 1996 workshop manual.

Watch the engine temperature during this operation. If the temperature exceeds normal range, reduce the engine speed to idle until the temperature returns to normal.

If the above method does not eliminate the HLA noise, the following may be the cause of the noise:

a) Low oil pressure due to clogged oil pump strainer

b) Oil pump internal problems

c) Faulty HLA


Refer to the workshop manual for additional troubleshooting information for items "a" and "b" above.

If the HLA is suspected as the cause of the noise item "c", identify the faulty HLA and replace only those that require replacement.
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The pictures didn't copy. . .

But if you can insert a .15mm feeler gauge between the base of the cam and the rocker, that particular HLA is bad.

They can be taken out and cleaned . . .they get deposits internally that make them stick.

Thanks mazdatweaker. but the motor itself locked up after i shut it off.

Before I'd write the motor off as a loss, I think I'd put it in 5th and push it backwards a little, or, in neutral, put a wrench on the crank bolt and try to turn the engine backwards. . .to see if it moves at all.

Maybe a water pump came apart internally, or a bolt came loose somewhere. If the engine will rotate some backwards, you might be able to salvage it.

Tryed it.. its a no go... i thought about stripping the motor down and rebuilding it

As easy as it is to go through one of these. . .it is what I would vote for.

If you can rebuild an automatic transmission, this is easier.

Referencing what you said about transmissions. . .

Here is a link to an entire rebuild kit on e-bay:



How many miles are on your engine?

200K

As Tweaker was so delicately trying to say (way to go Tweaker) rebuild the damn mota in the truck,do it correctly and it will last another 200k miles--easy. Or waste ur money trying to swap in a more expensive mota thatur also going to have to rebuild prolly and have it not last as long.Ur money ,ur truck,have at it.By the way,u can rebuid a Maz engine with it in the truck if u know what ur doin.bj