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Mazda Engine General \ Timming after rebuild?Timming after rebuild?
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replies 24
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hocbj23
+1y
wife is doing very well,Tweaker.Thanks for asking.Life is fine as long as she is ok.She gets mean when she is in pain.Lol.Still lookin for the chrome tach cup for the 82 Kawi CSR.I tried ur sources with no luck.Took it down to the 1/8th mile track here in Chatt-town last nite.Damn thing ran an 9.02 1/8th with me up and street tires. Damn I am rusty. Surprised the crap outta me.It is a mild modded J model engine with a 42 tooth rear sprocket so it is quick off the line.Its runnin lean too cause of the Vance and Hines pipe and the slide valves are off just a tad at low rpm but an 9.02 1/8th is fast enough for an old rusty fart like me.Shore did feel good though.Now if I could just find me a longer aluminum swing arm and a few other goodies----Ms.J would divorce me.Lol.nearly as good as sex and Irish whisky but not quite.LMAO.See ya soon I hope and I hope all is well with u and yours.BJ
mentalfloss
+1y
Hey bj. No its still down. I replaced O2 sensor and water thermal sensor both. It fired right up ran it for about 2 mins, adjust timming and got it with in 2 degress and then shut it off and wouldnt start up again after that. I got frustrated and left it alone after that. Was kinda crazy at work this week so havent gotten back on it yet. Im gonna pull the valve cover and take alook at timming chain just to double check everything is ok, but Im lost at this point. Any other ideas?
hocbj23
+1y
Im kinda runnin out of ideas here. Ive had two 2600i's and they were both great trucks--infact both are still here in town and both are still running-one with 300k miles on it.the only ongong issue with the trucks generally is a computer glitch they have.the motherboards have a problem with the etch flux melting and shorting out some of the circuitry--giving u random elec problems.U can pull th ECM under the pass. side kick panel,open it up and look at the green motherboard.If u see what appers to be a small brown "burned" lookin spot on the Board,u may have the problem.There are places that will repair the board for u for 150 bucks or so.Peeps on this site know who they are.Best I can do Bro.Good luck.BJ
mazdatweaker
+1y
Mentalfloss. . .the ECU pinouts are probably the same for the 1992 and the 1990.
If you need them. . .they are located here:
If you need them. . .they are located here:
mentalfloss
+1y
I shut it off! Was gonna make some adjustments to distributor and never got the chance...
hocbj23
+1y
pull a plug wire loose ( at nite),ground it and see if ur getting fire to the plugs.If so it aint the MB--when it goes u get nuttin.If ur r gettin fire, then maybe a fuel issue somewhere --clogged filter ,fuel line collapsed due to age,poor fuel pressure (should be 15 pounds or so,etc-- remember it doesnt take but three things to get a vehicle to run--fuel,air and a spark>Lol.BJ
mazdatweaker
+1y
You won't make that mistake again, I imagine. . .
If you get it lit off once it is cold. . .let it run. 15-30 minutes after a rebuild is what I do normally. . .and usually ignition timing adjustment is done with it running.
Maybe the problem you are having is with a coil breaking down internally.
BJ might be on to something here. . .
Alldata information:
SPARK TEST
CAUTION: To reduce the hazard of fire or explosion, ensure that no fuel leaks exist before conducting this test. Do not check for spark near the battery.
Disconnect ignition coil lead from distributor.
With insulated pliers, hold end approximately 0.20 - 0.39 in (5 - 10 mm) from ground and crank engine.
Verify that a strong blue spark jumps the gap.
If there is no spark, check for battery voltage at the coil positive terminal with ignition switch "ON."
If there is no voltage, check main fuse, ignition switch. Repair the problem as required.
RESISTANCE CHECK
Ignition Coil Resistance Check
Check primary resistance across coil terminals as indicated on image. 0.81 - 0.99 ohms
Check secondary resistance as indicated on image. 6 - 30 K ohms
Check insulation resistance between primary positive terminal and coil case. 10M ohms min.
Replace coil if it does not test as specified.
If you get it lit off once it is cold. . .let it run. 15-30 minutes after a rebuild is what I do normally. . .and usually ignition timing adjustment is done with it running.
Maybe the problem you are having is with a coil breaking down internally.
BJ might be on to something here. . .
Alldata information:
SPARK TEST
CAUTION: To reduce the hazard of fire or explosion, ensure that no fuel leaks exist before conducting this test. Do not check for spark near the battery.
Disconnect ignition coil lead from distributor.
With insulated pliers, hold end approximately 0.20 - 0.39 in (5 - 10 mm) from ground and crank engine.
Verify that a strong blue spark jumps the gap.
If there is no spark, check for battery voltage at the coil positive terminal with ignition switch "ON."
If there is no voltage, check main fuse, ignition switch. Repair the problem as required.
RESISTANCE CHECK
Ignition Coil Resistance Check
Check primary resistance across coil terminals as indicated on image. 0.81 - 0.99 ohms
Check secondary resistance as indicated on image. 6 - 30 K ohms
Check insulation resistance between primary positive terminal and coil case. 10M ohms min.
Replace coil if it does not test as specified.
mentalfloss
+1y
I was actually thinking that the coil might be it. my Blazer had that problem when it would get hot it wouldnt fire but it was great when it was cold. Ill bring my meter home from work tommorow and check that out. thanks for all the help guys. If I do swap the coil out any sugestions. Factory or after market? Dont even know if anybody makes a coil for this truck.