Modifying Hardlines on drivers side engine bay

I thought so - was talking with HocBj regarding that valve/module over the rear axel. I could not find anything about it in my Haynes manual and he knew nothing about it but I was sure I remember pulling that thing out of my truck many years ago.

As for what years had the anti-lock I really don't know. Mine is a 1990 and it had it. Jason's is a 1988 and did not so I can guess pretty close as to when they started with the anti-lock systems. I guess at this point I can only say that on my truck all wires to the proportioning valve have been eliminated and that module over the rear axel was tossed long ago and my brakes work just fine. Don't know that I have ever tried to lock up the rear tires but I have had to do some serious braking when some idiot pulled out in front of me. And the only squealing i can remember was coming out of my mouth and not from the rear tires LOL

mine has the same dis. block as shown on both pass and drivers sides.... i have a 90 with abs...

so about this abs is it a valve on the rear that has a rod that runs to the the frame and rear end?

I think the valve/module has something to do with the ABS. Was asking HocBJ about it and he was unfamilier with it. Maybe mazdatweaker might have some info. Eitherway with an adjustable suspension (air or hydro) I would think the valve would be useless. Looked at the wiring diagrams in my Haynes manual and it had nothing about the valve but I know it had wires going to it.

I believe that valve on the back controls the amount of pressure going to the rear brakes, the more dive in the front end the less fluid is allowed to the rear. This keeps the back from locking from weight transfer, mainly only would work under very hard braking.

I don't have a abs mazda to say for certain but I know toyota uses a similar concept

After picking up a flaring tool it didn't take me long to relies getting a proper flare and having enough room to slide the threaded nut up to get the flaring block on wasn't very easy on the shorter bent sections near the distribution block. I have decided to re flare the straight section against the firewall and then bend a new straight hard line to tuck in there nicer than the oem line allows.

thanks for the suggestions guys!

thats usually the best way to do flaring.... make sure not to bend the line to much to where it kinks the line...

I shortened mine at the master cylinders and replaced the ends with new ones. I used compression fittings to join the new and the old. I got pics on my home computer and ill post some tomorrow, but I think some are in my build thread

Well this is what I was wondering it is a common misunderstanding that it is ABS but it isnt. It is a pre load for the rear brakes. as you load the bed it preloads the brakes a little bit. the more load the more preload. At least that is how the toyota stuff is. I know they make some simple abs systems but the stuff I have seen on the early minitrucks is the preload.

Hey Mike - not really big on telling people what to do or not to do but ..... not really big on compression fittings on brake lines unless it's just a quick fix. There can be a lot of pressure within a brake line under panic conditions. Just an FYI.