sputtering

well i just installed a Weber on the mini. the carb is a 32/36 dgav. when i bought the truck the guy gave me the Weber. so i went ahead rebuilt it there was some issues after pulling it apart that i didn't like. so a buddy of mine had a parts Mazda and gave me the Weber carb off it. what i ended up doing is combing the two carbs into one. put it on the truck tuned it from what i read on the mazdatruckin article on installing it. also checked the timing to make sure all was good. now here's the issue.

at about a half throttle (while driving) it sputter's like it isn't getting fuel and wants to bog out and not gain any speed, but once i open it up more, no problems what so ever. I've messed around with tuning and no matter what it's still the same.

another thing is that when I'm on the freeway, i decided to open her up and see what she has. once i hit about 75 almost 80mph, it wants to bog out and go absolutely no where ans stay at 55 almost 60mph and it i try to give it gas it's just dumping fuel and it starts to smell like fuel.

no one? I've replaced the fuel pump and the pressure isn't that high as the last one, only other thing is that the advance isn't opening on the dizzy, and its a pita to find a b2200 in a pick a part they are all b2000's. and a new dizzy is freaking expensive.

We are having same problem then, mine with stock tho. Started about a week ago for me. Everything is great/normal until I have driven it about 15-20 minutes. Then it's ok to about 65-70 when it starts to bog & slow down. If I let off the pedal completely then it goes back to normal until it hits 65-70 again. Fuel filter was put in sometime in the spring. I will let you know if I figure mine out!

You can buy just the advance unit.

The last time I bought one, it was about $22.00.

They are manufactured by STANDARD.

You could probably do some research, and find one through NAPA, aftermarket discount auto parts store, or maybe even at the dealer.

Or you probably could use one off a 2000, since it does the exact same thing.

Maybe even use a distributor off a 2000, since it does the exact same thing as a 2.2 liter unit.

Drops right in.

Buying a used B2200 distributor is probably buying the EXACT same problem you already have.

Vacuum advance units go bad. That is why they are avavailable as a separate replacement part.

Until all underlying subsystems are operational, it is IMPOSSIBLE to tune a carburetor.

In this case, if the vacuum diaphragm in perforated, you have both the introduction of a HUGE vacuum leak which is diluting your incoming fuel/air charge, and the loss of critical spark advance.

will do to, now it only gets to 50 1st and 2nd are fine from 3rd 4th and 5th i have to be at a certain throttle position and rpm's and shift uber fast so it doesn't start bogging. it's worse when there is a load when the trucks going at an incline.

I don't know exactly what you are trying to say here, but until you fix what you KNOW is wrong, you are guessing at what detour will work around what is required.

no vacuum leaks sprayed everything! and even triple checked. As far as the advance no one intown sells just the advance part. how i know it is not working? i used a vacuum pump, and also a one that pushes air. and it isnt opening. as of right now im dumb founded.

If you have used a vacuum pump and the advance is not working, it is either stuck or the diaphragm is perforated internally. You will not find a leak like that with carb spray.

If you take off the distributor cap, and then apply vacuum to the advance unit, you should see the plate the advance is hooked to move about 15 degrees, and stay there as long as a signal is applied. The signal should not bleed down. If it does, the vacuum advancer is bad.

Get creative.

Try E-bay:

Get creative:

Try Autozone:

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