water pump question

well i thought i had blown the head gasket after just replacing it, but no water in oil or oil in water and no loss of water just gets hot.. i replaced the rad cap but its a 16 pound one and not a 13 so i gotta fix that.. but i remembered i told the autozone guy the truck was an 86 when i got the new water pump, the title says 87, so i got a square tooth pully when i needed a round tooth pully.. would this be why its over heating? if not the only other thing i can think of is a brand new radiator.. i think im gunna get a new water pump anyways cuz im gunna do the timing belt with it..

help is always appreciated!

no

maybe the thermostat is bad

maybe the thermostat is installed upside down

maybe the thermostat is installed backwards

maybe you didn't purge the air in the system when you put it back together

maybe the head is cracked and is pumping gas combustion pressure into the water jacket

maybe you didn't get all of the head bolts tightened correctly

maybe the fan clutch is no good

maybe the radiator is full of sludge

maybe the block is full of sludge

maybe someone tried to use stop leak and plugged coolant passages

maybe the timing is way off

maybe the converter or exhaust is clogged

The wrong pulley will destroy a timing belt, not make a truck run hot

Looks like a pretty good check list of possibilities. I know these engines seem to run a little hot anyway so hopefully one or two of the above will fix your problem.

maybe the thermostat is bad --- brand new when i did head gasket -- might as well get a new one for $7 lol

maybe the thermostat is installed upside down --- i installed it correctly as haynes showed

maybe the thermostat is installed backwards ^^

maybe you didn't purge the air in the system when you put it back together -- purged the air by gently pushing the throttle every 10 seconds or so like my dad tought me when i was a kid.. i got a few big air bubbles out didnt expect there should be much more

maybe the head is cracked and is pumping gas combustion pressure into the water jacket - head was rebuilt and i also checked it before putting it back on -- but this could be it, was thinkin of droppin an fe(3 or d?) motor in it anyways

maybe you didn't get all of the head bolts tightened correctly --- tightened them all, went over them twice-- in the right order

maybe the fan clutch is no good -- pretty sure this isnt it, was thinkin of droppin an electric on there since it only cost around $50 to do it these days

maybe the radiator is full of sludge -- gunna buy a new one since its only like $130 why not, i read these rads will rot out if it has straight water in them at all! who knows what the p.o's did to this poor thing

maybe the block is full of sludge -- could be, but i used engine flush after replacing the gasket

maybe someone tried to use stop leak and plugged coolant passages, i did a complete system flush after i replaced the gasket it seemed to flow fine with the garden hose and a t-pipe like the flush bottle thing recommended

maybe the timing is way off -- this could be but it starts up fine and runs great no studdering and it idles fine too

maybe the converter or exhaust is clogged ---the converter could be but the exhaust after that has too many holes LMAO

The wrong pulley will destroy a timing belt, not make a truck run hot -- thats why i gotta do the timing belt too lol





thanks for the tips!!!

Did you have the heater core open. . . with the temperature selector turned to "hot" . . . and run the truck long enough to get hot air coming out of the heater?

The heater core will hold a lot of air otherwise.

When I did my last radiator flush I filled it up as normal (with heater turned on also) and to purge as much air as possible I undid the hose clamp on the bypass hose on the thermostat housing and pulled that off and let the air out from there, once it stopped purging I put it back on and refilled the radiator to the top.
After about 5 times of doing this I finally had water coming out the hose so I put it back on and tightened up the hose clamp again, a final fill of the rad was all it took to completely sort it all out.
If you don't have the same bypass on your housing I'm guessing the temp sensor would work also.
I've kept an eye on the water level in the radiator and overflow bottle since I did this and it hasn't budged at all, I even put extra coolant in the overflow just in case and ended up having to remove it as it wasn't needed.

Just out of curiosity what thermostat heat range did you get? I got one for the Ford Courier as this is what I drive and it was a higher heat range so I was running too hot, I eventually changed it to a cooler Mazda one.

any updates? when you had the head rebuilt, did they pressure test it for cracks. I don't know if all machine shops do this which is why i ask. if you think the block is full of sludge i would drop the pan first and take a look. you can also run about 1/2 a quart to 1 full quart of auto tranny fluid in your engine for about 500 miles. tranny fluid works like a detergent and will clean the engine up very nicely. but you don't want to run it in there for more than 500 miles. then just change the oil and filter. with your exhaust, that could also be a big problem depending on how bad the leaks are. these engine need backpressure to run correctly. more so than v8s. and of course there is always that possibility that you got a bad thermostat from the parts store. I have actually had that happen twice. good luck boss.

wow i never thought of that dvsdev thanks alot ill do that!!! you mean the little hose that hits a 90* and goes toward the back of the engine??

and maztang thanks for the info im gunna do that aswell, does it matter that i run full synthetic?

i actually pulled the radiator out and sprayed a high pressure hose into the top hose and it came out alot slower than expected from the bottom.. it was actually filling up and coming out the cap hole as it was coming out the bottom so im pretty sure that radiator is glogged good lol

also the exhaust is really rotted out and i never got around to putting new resonator gasket in so that could be a big help.. or when i fit that turbo on there that should really help lol

it doesn't matter that you use full synthetic. full synthetic oils are the best oils out there to use on any engine. the only problem is ( and this won't apply to your problem) but most people will use regular oils for years and then swap over to full synthetic, this is bad. your seals get used to a certain type of oil and over time if you swap oils the new/different type of oil will actaully eat at your seals. same thing with tranny fluid. if you have a vehicle that has say around 100k miles and the fluid has never been changed, DON'T change it. only change your filter when needed and add fluid. if you drain your tranny of that old tranny fluid and add new stuff, it eats the seals.

as for the radiator, it is going to come out slower at the bottom, there are a lot of small tunnels it has to flow through so it will fill up and over flow faster than it drains at the bottom, so it may not necessarily be the radiator. if you have a decent radiator shop near by, you could take it to them and have them inspect it real good. when i had my 89 the kid i got it from destroyed that little truck! the radiator was all rotted out, i took it to a radiator repair shop and they fixed it up real nice for me, didn't really save me a lot of money compared to a new one but the work they did to it will last twice as long as a new one. they coated the inside with something. they have been doing radiators fo rmany years.

i would do a real good coolant flush, take it to a shop if need be. most shops have a machine that puts pressure to the coolant system and cleans it out real good. usually doesn't cost to much.

well im gettin the other one from bigamigo we'll see then, im gunna look into takin it to a shop too!! i never knew you could even do that lol