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Mazda Projects \ RC's daily dragger(90 b2200 single cab)RC's daily dragger(90 b2200 single cab)
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following 13
reed_bryant
+1y
did you end up flaring the bedsides? im running the same rims and im probably going to have to do it to tuck.
rcogan
+1y
Love my little larrys
simple operation
If your talking about the first set of wheels i had on it, that match the ones in your signature, you will have to flare bed
simple operation
If your talking about the first set of wheels i had on it, that match the ones in your signature, you will have to flare bed
norcallumps
+1y
If I do bag my truck that's what I'm looking at going to. Looks simple and I like that.
dealwithit
+1y
nice build man, love your rear suspension setup. ive got a thin links 4 link kit, and wondering how to do bags on bars, you just solved that by adding extra bars
rcogan
+1y
Glad i could help. Haha
Depending how your 4 link sets up could be real easy to mount bags on bar
Just make sure bars are strong enough
Depending how your 4 link sets up could be real easy to mount bags on bar
Just make sure bars are strong enough
rcogan
+1y
has been a while, have done a few things to truck..
it sat still for awhile, started having significant electrical issues, lights wouldnt work, then the dash lights and functions kept flickering, wipers stopped working, along with some other stuff
pulled dash out, along with seats and carpet, took out all the excess stuff behind the dash(ac/heat) since it isnt useful or needed. got it running again and everything seems to work properly
had a gas tank rust issue, got that taken care of
then had more then a few issues with tires so ended up having to swap rims in a hurry, so i went back with the ol reliable Z-71 wheels and 215/40r16 tires..
it sat still for awhile, started having significant electrical issues, lights wouldnt work, then the dash lights and functions kept flickering, wipers stopped working, along with some other stuff
pulled dash out, along with seats and carpet, took out all the excess stuff behind the dash(ac/heat) since it isnt useful or needed. got it running again and everything seems to work properly
had a gas tank rust issue, got that taken care of
then had more then a few issues with tires so ended up having to swap rims in a hurry, so i went back with the ol reliable Z-71 wheels and 215/40r16 tires..
rcogan
+1y
wipers issue was a plug on driver side under hood by master cylinder that was plugged into wrong connector and was shorting it out..fuse would blow instant key was turned on
exterior lights, dash lights,and functions were caused by previous owner trying to make the wrong combo switch work by tapping into wires and just wrapping them in electrical tape..there was wires running all over the place. was a few spots where tape had come off and bare wire ends were sitting on dash mounting points or up against firewall.
i was to the point of ripping entire harness out and starting over with a virgin harness from a parts truck.
exterior lights, dash lights,and functions were caused by previous owner trying to make the wrong combo switch work by tapping into wires and just wrapping them in electrical tape..there was wires running all over the place. was a few spots where tape had come off and bare wire ends were sitting on dash mounting points or up against firewall.
i was to the point of ripping entire harness out and starting over with a virgin harness from a parts truck.
axel breaker earl
+1y
Yeah, the lights connector on the combo switch.......it can be rebuilt for nothing. Sounds like your original unit went bad and they tried to install the older style (1 pin less) unit or plug connector in it.
When the points inside of the switch mechanism get dirty, it causes more resistance, and therefore heat, and eventually the copper strip "finger" that one side of the "points" are on, will get too hot and lose it's ability to make contact to the other side of the points.......hence, the parking lights go out.....or the headlights, there is a separate "finger" & points for each. That switch can be completely pulled apart and cleaned and the "finger" bent slightly to make contact again, and everything will work as normal again.
I have a thread on this with lots of pics so you can see how it is supposed to work. Can't remember if I posted it here on Bscene also, but I know it is over at the MTing site.
I will check here and see, and if I don't have it here, then I will add it! Cool stuff for sure!
YEP! It's here also......
Your truck looks sharp also!
When the points inside of the switch mechanism get dirty, it causes more resistance, and therefore heat, and eventually the copper strip "finger" that one side of the "points" are on, will get too hot and lose it's ability to make contact to the other side of the points.......hence, the parking lights go out.....or the headlights, there is a separate "finger" & points for each. That switch can be completely pulled apart and cleaned and the "finger" bent slightly to make contact again, and everything will work as normal again.
I have a thread on this with lots of pics so you can see how it is supposed to work. Can't remember if I posted it here on Bscene also, but I know it is over at the MTing site.
I will check here and see, and if I don't have it here, then I will add it! Cool stuff for sure!
YEP! It's here also......
Your truck looks sharp also!
rcogan
+1y
The switch with to few prongs was exactly right. They tryed tapping into the wiring itself to compensate for it
I replaced switch last year with right one. Just hat to get rigged wiring fixed.
Thanks for the link. Will come in handy I'm sure.
Hopefully I am done fixing the previous owners screw ups and I can move forward not backwards.
I replaced switch last year with right one. Just hat to get rigged wiring fixed.
Thanks for the link. Will come in handy I'm sure.
Hopefully I am done fixing the previous owners screw ups and I can move forward not backwards.