93 B2200 2.0L Turbodiesel

Do you recall how many items would need to be pressed off and onto the main shaft? I have a set of gear pullers and a pretty big A-frame press so I may have the tools to do this. The skills? Perhaps not - I've only torn apart one manual trans before to replace synchros. Wasn't too bad, but had a nice step-by-step guide with pictures so it was kind of hard to screw up.

I also have a transmission shop down the street...

Just make certain that you mark which synchro hub goes where, and the direction that it is facing. 2 of the hubs will fit in the same spots, but won't line up right. Unfortunately the difference is minute that you might not be able to tell until a gear gets stuck while driving (guess how I learned that one.) To press off, I forget how many pieces it is. You will need a good set of pullers (I made a longer one, shown in my thread) and a big wrench to get the lock nut off of a gear (I think reverse) I made mine out of 1/4" plate steel and welded it to a piece of iron pipe with a handle.

Managed to break a rib last month and was hoping the pain would subside by now. It hasn't so my progress on the truck has been slow as I'm not physically capable of getting up and down to take care of the other vehicle (Jeep Cherokee) that is taking up all the room in my shop. I need to get the transfer case back in that thing but I'm not going to be able to do that until my body gets better.

In the meantime I have pulled out the carpet in the B and pressure washed it a few times to get the stains and nasty stench out of it. Also replaced the rear speakers while I had the trim pieces out. Since that was, by far, the most dis assembly I've ever had to do to get to a speaker I figured I'd replace them now so I never have to do that again.

I'll have some pictures up later of the carpet before and after - the pressure wash made a big difference.

Carpet before:




Carpet after 2 pressure washes:






Got the bulk of the nastiness off. Going to use a carpet cleaner to get the remaining stains.

This project went on the back burner for the fall/winter as I caught up with some others. Got back into it this past weekend and dropped the engine into the B. Found out that the motor mounts that came with the diesel engine were not the same as the original mounts on the 2.2L that I yanked. They were very, very similar, but slightly longer. Swapped the original mounts on and lowered the engine back into the bay.

More interference, this time between the oil pan and steering center link. I figured this would happen so I was prepared to swap oil pans from the original 2.2L engine. Big fail. Although the oil pan bolt pattern is identical between the F2 gasser and RF-CDT diesel, the diesel has a gear-driven oil pump that sits in the oil pan at the front of the engine. The original oil pan is there to stay and I'll have to figure out something else to get rid of the interference.

In the meantime, I pulled the pitman arm and removed the idler arm from the frame and let the center link drop. I was then able to lower the diesel engine onto the factory mounts.



The front of the oil pan is about touching the front sway bar. I can easily get around that by adding some 1/4" spacers and dropping it down. Still need to figure out what to do about the center link. Got some ideas, but it will definitely have to be a custom job.

Also pretty close to the heater core fittings, but should be an easy fix:



Need to tackle the steering interference next and if I can figure that out, it should be relatively smooth sailing from there on out.

Decided the most painless route (not necessarily the cheapest, though) would be to raise the engine to get rid of the interference with the steering linkage. Due to the angled design of the original Mazda motor mounts, shifting the motor upward isn't so trivial. I tried a few different configurations and spacer options, but I didn't feel comfortable with any setup I had. Decided to redo the mounts all together and came up with this design:



This design will move the motor mounting location to the flat portion on top of the original frame mounts in the truck. Mocked it up in 1:1 scale with some paper and cardboard and it looks like it will fit very nicely. Going to use this style motor mount: " target="_blank

Need to talk to my sheet metal guy on Monday and figure out what kind of price I'm looking at for the brackets, but I'm thinking no more than $30 a piece.

Nice work Terra

Custom mounts came in. No more center link interference:


Now I'll have hood interference:

Guess it's body lift time!

Few things accomplished:

New motor mounts painted and installed:


Power steering line with a welded -6AN fitting to attach to the existing B2200 steering hose (with -6AN to 16mm flared adapter):


1" hockey puck body lift complete on cab:






Hood closes now:


Immediate action items:
[*:g58m0ll7]Body lift on bed (have pucks, just need to figure out what kind of bolts I will need)[/*:m:g58m0ll7]
[*:g58m0ll7]Figure out WTF is going on with my transmission rebuild (once I have that, the mechanical drivetrain portion of this swap will be complete)[/*:m:g58m0ll7]
[*:g58m0ll7]Buy reservoir and complete power steering piping[/*:m:g58m0ll7]
[*:g58m0ll7]Buy hoses for heater core and route lines[/*:m:g58m0ll7]
[*:g58m0ll7]Relocate fuel lines to driver side and pipe to injection pump[/*:m:g58m0ll7]
[*:g58m0ll7]Wiring, wiring, wiring[/*:m:g58m0ll7]

I had the same issues with my OM602 swap, had the same solution as well. Gotta love the hockey pucks.