axel breaker earl
+1y
First you'll need to unbolt the idler arm on the passenger frame rail so the front drag link can be lowered enough to get the oil pan off once you get the oil pan loose.
Second, pull the motor-to-trans braces on each side of the oil pan.
Then remove all of the oil pan bolts, and start working it loose......it is glued on with silicone from the factory.......and it is ON THERE! Be careful not to scar up the oil pan, or bend it......use a putty knife and razor knife to slowly work on the silicone.......the front oil pan rail is actually the bottom of the oil pump, and it's aluminum, so be extra careful that you don't gouge the rails up there........the rear oil pan rail is the same also......aluminum. It is the rear oil seal housing and you want to be careful with it also.
Once you get the pan off, you can remove the oil pick-up tube, then the oil pump.........of course the harmonic balancer will have to come off also, and that 21mm bolt will/should be very tight.......you'll probably have to use an impact wrench to remove it, and when your putting it back on, you'll need to rig a way to hold the engine from spinning in order to tighten that 21mm bolt back down to 160 ft.lbs. or so.
Use the ultra grey silicone to re-seal the oil pan........DON'T use a oil pan gasket!! All gasket kits come with one, but don't use it, otherwise you'll have a oil pan leak within the first year.......these engines never came with a oil pan gasket.
You will probably need to unbolt the windage tray (between the oil pan and the block) and clean it good around it's perimeter and use the ultra grey on it as well, before the oil pan goes on.