Oonyong's mods! Carbed 2200 "Built, not Bought"

hey I've been on the site getting help for my ol truck since I bought it a few months ago and now that I'm starting to get more into the modding and building I thought it would be appropriate I make up a progress thread. please feel free to tell me if it looks like crap, or an occasional good job would be welcomed too
here's where the truck stands as of now.
it's a 90 carbed 2.2 5speed with 190000+ kms.

it has an upgraded ignition system I decided on the accel super stock coil with a champion distributor cap and rotor with champion copper plus plugs.

it's running a complete EGR Delete. Only the egr plug and vaccum sensor remains all the lines and tubes and the valve has been removed and block off plates have been installed on the intake and exhaust manifolds.

exhaust is temporary, just a thrush glasspack exiting just behind the passenger door lol
I plan to split it to 1.5" dual tips tucked into the bumper cuts in the rear.

the spare tire and rear bumper are toast. my spare was actually full of water when I yarded it out and chucked it, and the bumper was beyond rusted out.

that covers current mods.

in the works (parts are all here just need to find the time) I have a ranger headlight swap, timing belt and water pump change, weber 32/36 dgev swap, battery relocate and a suicide hood hinge.

coming soon I will be replacing the radiator and putting 235/60R15's on a set of 90's Toyota rims (BFG Radial T/A'S of course. gotta rock white letters on a modded whip) I will be doing the full emissions delete to compliment the weber swap and I may wire tuck what's left. stay tuned!

went at the front end today and got my headlights swapped in. looks decent compared to what I started with, one light was half full of water... lol
one thing I did not see mentioned in any of the other swap posts was I needed to take the grinder out and cut a couple notches out of the core support for the ranger light signal plugs to fit. I never got a pic yet but I basically cut out around the old plastic screw threaders.

prices tires for my yota rims. BFG radial ta's are too rich for me, I just out some new 205/75r14 on the factory rims. they will last a while.
I kinda had to do something...

newho, carb shipped it should be here soon. yahoo! going to tackle rad replacement, timing belt and water pump this weekend. feels like it jumped another tooth I havnt checked yet.

here's what happened to my tires lol

got a new rad tossed into the truck the other day along with a new water pump and timing belt, sure enough it had indeed jumped a tooth.
I never snapped any pictures but I read about the tentioner spring failing and tearing shit up. I'm usually not a fan of leaving parts out of a reassembly like this but when reinstalled there was no tension on the spring so it got left out. I know myself it's easy to remove the cover and check it.

carb shipped 5 days after the payment cleared... big piss off.

next up is a suicide hood done the same as the guide on here. lots of sleeping old cars here in Saskatchewan to pick a hinge from scored one for ten bucks! I am also doing my research into static drops. I'd like to hear your input on the best way for the rear... mono leaf, flipped, bought or berlin'd? too many choices!

drop blocks are they easiest and cheapest. But if you wanna go all out do a 4 link with coil-overs.

You left the tensioner spring off? It's there for a reason!

I wouldn't drive the truck that way, fix it then you won't have to worry about it any longer.

PS. turn your camera the other direction so your pictures line up horizontally not vertically.

will do.

I'm looking at drop blocks a 4 link is beyond my budget (and capability). but someday I hope god permit (er... wife..) a bagged out 4 link.

as far as the spring goes, hey if it's not doing anything off it goes has always been my motto. I see it as more of a failsafe then having any actual action.. example: the bolt securing the tentioner wheel comes loose. tbh it's purpose evades me. I'm comfortable taking a peeky-boo behind the cover every so often to check anyway. I put mild thread lock on the dirty bitch of a bolt as a precaution as well

Well I got my weber installed tonight. (in the dark, with a mosquito coil and two flashlights)
and would you believe it started and runs fine without ANY adjustment, right from the box?
I think my idle might be a little high but I'll run it for a few days and see what happens.

also I removed all the associated emissions lines, wires and equipment. Some happy this went flawless and I'm not going to suffer any downtime

now I can do some wire tucking and cleaning. Best place for a battery relocate? I think it will go behind the seat, but I'd rather have it in a battery box bolted to the driver side frame rail.