bleeding clutch cylinders

more info... I checked out the clutch linkage and return spring... everything looks in place. Measured the clutch pedal height and it seemed lower than what my book recommended... the book says 214-219 and mine is more like 200. But when I go to adjust, it seems like the stopper is already turned almost all the way in.

One thing that gave me pause was the locknut on the pushrod was loose, so the pushrod could have moved in or out on its own. So I should adjust the pedal play... my book defines pedal play as "the distance the pedal can be depressed before it begins to have any effect on the clutch" ... I guess that means before it engages the cylinder at all. Just thinking out loud.

Wait... I think I figured it out. The clutch pedal won't pop back up until the system is under pressure again.

Are you closing up the bleed nipple each time after he pumps the pedal? It has to build up pressure, then he pushes the pedal, you open the nipple again and the air bubbles come out, then nip it closed straight away. You should get pressure at the pedal after 4 or 5 of those, repeated.

Don't talk about Lydia's nipples, we don't want to scare her away.

But Simoniz has the right idea. He should push the pedal slowly and hold it down; then you open the bleed screw, then close it while he lets (or pulls) the pedal up. Do a few times.

Another technique I've used I do this is to have Mrs. Cusser pump slowly (get your minds out of the gutter, for just this time) while I have the bleed screw open, and after a few pumps look bubble free, I close the bleed screw while she's on the downstroke.

As Yogi Berra would say: it will feel right when you've done it right.

I did it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yeah I just had to calm down and stick with it.

Clutch feels fabulous.

But now truck won't turn over. I think because it's been sitting for so long. wtf

Hook up jumper cables. Does it click or just not do anything?

CONGRATS on successful clutch cylinders job !!!!

Either jump start the truck and drive a while, or take battery out and take it to AutoZone or O'Reillys, believe these places still do free recharges. Wear safety glasses when you work around a battery.

Using the truck's alternator to recharge a completely dead battery is not a real great idea, but I doubt that your battery is completely dead (if so just get replacement), so should be alright. That's just not waht an alternator is designed for.

I have a 2004 Nissan Frontier 100 miles away, and it has no issues starting right up if I don't get up there even after 6 weeks.

I misspoke, it's turning over but not firing, like it's a fuel problem. might just let the shop handle a fuel problem, i hate working with gas. i have been on fire once in my life and that was plenty.

If the engine spins at the correct speed, then could be fuel-related. And it could be related to sitting for that amount of time.

Safe way to try: get some aerosol starting fluid (auto store or Walmart), spray some into the air cleaner (or take off the top of the air cleaner to do this) hold the pedal down, and try to start. Do several times if necessary. It might stumble and stall at first, that's OK.

Most likely the fuel has just evaporated out of the carburetor.

Cusser, you the best. Always here to help. I will try that.