threads
Page 1 of 2
Mazda Engine General \  Help 1987 2.6l carbd

Help 1987 2.6l carbd

Mazda Engine General Mazda Engine Mazda Tech
views 1420
replies 11
following 4
 
xeducatex   +1y
Help point me in the right direction


One day I was driving and I thought I heard a slight pop then the truck would start sputtering on acceleration. Once I got to a certain speed it seemed to go away but then as soon as I slowed down and tried to accelerate it would bog out until I got to a steady speed then it would go away. Also I would shift to nutral and rev it up but it would sputter or anything then. Only when it was it gear.

Its not the egr. I check ed that

I cant really check for overheating because my temp gauge doesnt work. Ive replaced both sensors but still nothing so I ordered a new thermostat and waterpump but I cant change it cuz I dont have the tools here and I dont wanna drive down the street to my aunts where there are plenty of tools cuz I dont want to cause any more problems to my truck.

Ive moved it a few times because of street sweeping and it only sputtered once but oddly it was it nutral. It hasnt done it since but ive only just started it up to move it and thats it.

Any ideas on what ut could be


Its the stock mikuni carb btw
xeducatex   +1y
Nobody has a clue?
emjay   +1y
I need a bit more information to help pinpoint the problem. You say that you have a carb'd 2.6, is it the factory carb or is it a Weber aftermarket carb?

If I had to guess right away I would point my finger at a rich running condition, possible fuel restriction (either a partial clogged filter, crud in a carb jet, or a weak pump.) What is the potential for bad gas in your area? Maybe one of the hoses is brittle and causing air to seep in?

It could also be a timing issue, maybe the distributor cap is cruddy and providing weak contact? Maybe your ignition coil is going south, or your plug wires are falling apart?

When I went with a gutted exhaust system I would get periodic backfiring due to the lack of back pressure. What condition is your exhaust in?
xeducatex   +1y
Well its the stock carb. I was thinking it could be a carb oroblem so im in the process of ordering a rebuild kit.

The exhaust has a few leaks but I know the cat was replaced in 09

Bad gas could be an issue.....the PO said the truck sat mostly. I drove it 40 miles home tho and it ran fine. Filled her to about half a tank when I did that. Once I got home I threw about 20 in her and drove until it started sputtering. I dont know if bad gas would affect it after drivimg for that far but maybe it did.

Timing and distributor will be set this weekend.

I believe the fuel pump sounds as tho it still works properly but I will check the lines and see if there is any issues.

Also going to replace plugs this weekend. Not the wires but I will now inspect them.

I guess I got some check on a few things before we can really narrow anything down but I really really appreciate the responce as I dont get mych help on here
lifewontwait   +1y
sounds like the coil pack is bad.
jenko   +1y
the more you help us you help yourself details details.
the filling timing and previous use helps.
I vote blow back down your fuel lines first and foremost. if it sat for ages then you drove/filled it may have just dislodged some tank crud.
missing under load does sound electrical though. lol
auto or manual? if it's an electric pump you'll have to pull it, blowing won't do jack
xeducatex   +1y
Well I did the cooling,yesterday and it appears to not be over heating.

Im curious how hot these trucks usually run tho. The temp gauge still took about 10min to even move and when it did it rose to just barly above operating temp line. I just flushed with water but boy oh boy there was alot of brown coming out of there. Also does anyone know what color coolant these trucks are supposed to take?

I tried to reroute the vaccume line as best I could per the under hood diagram. Its not perfect but it seems to run a bit smoother than before. The PO mustve just plugged in hoses with no regard for the diagram cuz there were quite a few out of place. After finishing it took a while to get her started but after the initial start it fired up no problem everytime


Btw does anyone know what the WTV is that I see on the
diagram but I seem to be missing?

Today or tommorrow I will change the spark plugs as well as
add coolant and treatment for the cooling system.

I will then drive around and see if it is still doing the sputtering. Ill report back with what happens but as of now at least I know its not over heating

and what us a coil pack?

So to sum up

What color coolant???

Wtf is the WTV? It seems to be located right next to temp sensors
jenko   +1y
coolant colour it's just dye as far as I know.
coolant type depends on where you are and the season usually.
coil pack is the coil/coils
xeducatex   +1y
What is this
WTV thing right by the thermostat housing thats missing tho......

Completed the cooling and I dont know how hot these trucks should run but my gauge stays right at or just above the operating temp line. Seems like the gauge is a lil off.

Also changed the spark plugs and tried to finish up the vacumme lines.....i think there all in the right spot now I just need new hoses.

Also after I drove it around yesterday it started to diesel when I would turn it off so im gunna do the timing today or tommorrow.

Also I noticed whenim driving if I push the gas too hard too soon the truck wants to stumble. Seems like a late reaction or maybe the carb is getting to much fuel.

Gunna start working on the fuel system more in depth in a couple weeks when I get paid again. along with fixing the lifter knock.

So who knows what the wtv is?

Till then just some no money fixes
jenko   +1y
the check your slow fuel stop solonoid. I think its the one pointing towarrd the.firewall. will only diesel with fuel. the spak will be killed with the ignition killing its feed.
to check the solinoid run a live.wire to it and you'll hear it "clink"