Why the issues with the hydraulic lifters??

I also have a 90 b2600. However, my tick didnt start until I had the head replaced.

It does go away after a lot of continous city driving or a few minutes on the highway. But will return soon after a few days of sitting or very little driving.

This weekend I changed my oil, and tried something a bit different to see if it will make a difference. I got to say it is working alright so far. But I have been fooled before.

Royal Purple 5w30 x4
Lucas x1
K&N/Oil Filter p/n HP-1010

I chose the K&N filter for the Anti-drainback valve. I read somewhere that it will help elimated the tick. This oil change was more expensive than usual but I got my fingers crossed.

I have an all new motor with all new head parts with adjustable style rocker arms and it still has the tick. Let's just say that it's better to hear them than not.

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I have had this issue as long as I have owned my truck(26yrs).It is a 87b22 and does this mostly when cold or have not run in a couple days.I have run 10/30 or 10/40 conventional oil with fram,mobil one filters.Mobil one seems to work better and just some old history frams original filter was a ph2849A bigger size.Now the reason fram changed to the ph3593a was to increase oil pressure to the top end.Mazda had loads of complaints about the tick even after changing specs in 90 from .031 to 0.78 for the valves oil ports.Carried away I got and the b26 is different just sharing info.

I have adjustable rockers and no tick. When I got the truck it ticked but it went away completely after I adjusted the valves. Also I run Delo 15w-40 with a Wix/Napa gold filter.

Weighing all the comments, which I really appreciate by the way, it's become pretty apparent there isn't much to be done to eliminate my pesky valve train noise. Unless I want to spend the time and money to mod over to solid lifters and adjustable rockers.

The noise has always annoyed me but for now I'll just learn to live with it.

On the up side, now I'm reasonably sure it's not a rist pin or cracked piston skirt talking back to me or forbid the thought a loose rod.

I had planned to but never did get around to shorting out each plug with the engine idleing to see if it changed the tic in question, as either of the above most likely would have. Hmmmm?

OldGuy

xXChromeGhostXx,


Again about that notorious tic, tic, tic. Does anyone know if these engines were designed with exceptionally short piston skirts? Short piston skirts when properly fitted cause less drag on the cylinder wall, hence more HP, improved gas milage, etc..
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that's an awesome theory but I used a stethoscope to listen the engine and the sound is coming from the top, right rear side of head. The tic noise got distinctively faint as I went further away from the top end of the engine.

I have a 93 b2200 that was handed down from my grandfather to my father. Before the 93 my Gpa drove a 79 or 80 b2000. He sold it to the dealer, otherwise it would still be in the family. ;( I just changed the oil to 5w30 and replaced the crappy FRAM filter to a mobile1 to see if that helps. Noise at start up but after a good rev went away. Have to drive about 600 miles this week for work so maybe a long drive will help clear the system out.

I've had a few mazdas B series trucks in the past and they ALL had the tic. They blew gaskets before anything else.