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Mazda Engine General \  Clutch Question. Need Help/Advise

Clutch Question. Need Help/Advise

Mazda Engine General Mazda Engine Mazda Tech
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jayking   +1y
So when I got the truck, sorry, 87 2.2 5spd, it supposedly had a new slave cylinder put in it. My problem is this... Over the time I've had it the clutch has progressivly got worse at sticking about an inch from the floor. I mean,, When I push the clutch in, it engages fine, but on return it only comes up like an inch then it pops up on its own after I tap upwards with my toe on it. Well It got quite worse Friday on the way home. It did it at almost every light , thank gosh I'm on the highway most of the time.
I looked at the Master and see no leaks and is full of fluid, so I went underneath to get a better view of my Slave. First thing I noticed is the boot that comes off the bottom of the trans has been ripped apart andtorn to shreads. So other then that it looked ok. I had my wife come out and pump the clutch and the slave is squeky for sure but seems to be going in and out as it should.
I got home from work just now and went out there and started the truck, pushed the clutch in and it hung again, so instead of tapping it upwards I just keep pumping on it till it was stiff and on floor board then I popped it up. Now it feels normal again but still squeky. However I haven't actually driven it yet either.
What the hell is going on here? Help me Cusser! anyone! lol
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Post was last edited on Apr 24, 2015 08:04. This post has been edited 2 times.
jayking   +1y
sorry, first photo, is that the trans fill bolt in the back there?
scotch   +1y
You probably have a leak
axel breaker earl   +1y
You mention that it is squeaky when the clutch is pressed in and let back out.

Is the squeaking noise coming from inside the cab? If so, there are some plastic bushings on the pivot points under the dash where the clutch pedal attaches. They get worn and then it's metal to metal and it may squeak when depressing the clutch.......if it is binding because of the wear, then it quite possibly could cause the clutch mechanism to stick also.

Just figured it may be worth sticking your head under the dash and watch the rotation of the clutch mechanism as you push the clutch pedal in...........I'm not saying this is your problem, but it's worth taking a look.
jayking   +1y
The squeaking is coming from the slave as my wife was pumping it for me while I was under it.

And yes!! I do have a oil leak! I replaced the gasket and gourmets already on the valve cover, but I still notice it leaking towards the rear of it, more so on the drivers side, but its a rubber felpro gasket so I thought it would sit ok, Didn't want to use any gasket maker on it. May need too. Not sure! Also if I'm on the drivers side leaning in and looking at the back of the timing belt upper cover,,, I have a gap between the cover and were its suppose to sit. Either it was replaced with wrong one, warped, or just bent. IDK. All screws are in proper holes and I've got oil build up on the lower timing cover (outside towards fan... I've been trying to find the main leak for sometime now, but thats just hard to ask online. It can be anywhere. But the blow back starts towards the front of the engine. How much oil flows through that timing belt area?
jayking   +1y
correction... actually the squeking sounds like it from the clutch release fork, where it meets the trans
Cusser   +1y


I think it's time to install a new clutch master and clutch slave cylinder. These seem to last just a few years on these trucks.

Clutch cylinders hints and tips
(1) Bench-bleed the clutch master cylinder before installing.
(2) Loosen the line fitting at the slave cylinder a little before unbolting it from the transmission housing - and thread in and mostly tighten before bolting the slave cylinder back on during re-assembly
(3) Use a flare wrench for initial loosening and final tightening of the lines.
(4) Don't bend the line after it's loose
(5) Thread in the line fitting several turns by hand to avoid cross-threading, maybe even get this started before tightening the clutch MC mounting bolts.
mymmeryloss   +1y
Yeah id suggest just changing both again. Theyre cheap and easy.
jayking   +1y
Had time today to take the Slave and Master off. Pretty sure its the Master. lol,, Slave looks ok, but I work with the guy I got this truck from and he put the Slave on it, So I'm taking it to him so he can return for a free replace. LOL Buying Master in a minute!
Fluid is horrible looking, Really dark in the bottom close to slave, but still looks new in the Master bowl like its not using the fluid! Corrosion all over where the clutch pole/(adjuster maybe) enters the Master.

ADDED PICTURE TO VERY TOP OF THIS POSTING
jayking   +1y
OK guys, got the new Master and Slave in front of me. How the heck do I bench bleed the master? Meaning... when I hook up the lines wont that let air back into the system if bench bleed? And this Autozone Duralast Master doesn't have a bleeder valve! Do I just leave the top off???