weber carb

my buddy wants me to swap carb to a weber. has anyone put on on and why should i. my buddy says it is to get rid my vacuum hoses which may be causing some of my grief. here is the one he is thinking about.



i know... my buddy says, my buddy says, my buddy says. well what buddy doesnt know wont hurt em.

also on original carb, it looks like i am missing my (mas) screw. there is a hole where my book photo shows the place of screw under seliniod, but just a hole. its a 83 2.6l engine m/t ac

I would Love to have one to do away with the vac. lines but right now i have more bills coming in than money!

Used to have a 32/36. They are nice because they get rid of all the vacuum lines and they are all mechanically controlled unlike the stock POS mikuni. A little easier to get running decent, will make a little more power, will drop mpg down a few.

a new carb was the first thing that i put on my truck and ive had it for about 6 months now. i love it, really easy to maintain and you only have one vacum hose to worry about. the onlything is that you would want to get a different fuel pump because i have noticed that when i go into a store and come back out about 30 min later it doesnt want to start up right away, i kinda have to feather the gas a bit to get it to fire off. i have a presssure regulator on it but i dont know what it is. thats my experience whith the 32/36 weber, if you are thinking about it id say go for it, there is minor fab work.

If anyone is considering the 32/36, 34, or 38mm WEBER conversion then I highly suggest an electric fuel pump and here is why. A mechanical fuel pump surges and it does not keep the float bowls full and it does not maintain the proper pressure. These WEBERS runs best with consistent volume and not excessive pressure. The best pump for the WEBER applications hands down is the Carter 40/70 electric fuel pump. It puts out 4-7 PSI and is very quiet. It does not, and I repeat does not require a pressure regulator of any kind. WEBERS runs best at 4-5 PSI when tuned properly.

The pump costs anywhere between $65 and $90 bucks depending on where you get it (online vs. retail).
The Holley and Eldebrock pumps all put out too much pressure as these manufacturers primarily build pumps for v8's.

It is nice not having any vaccum lines and it does make a major improvement over stock. Reliability is the biggest gain when you go with the 32/36.

Is your '83 2.6 completely stock? After looking at the link you provided in your original post, I see you have chosen the 38 DGES. This is a good choice but these carbs are really designed for motors that have been pumped up for performance. A hotter cam, flat top pistons, head work (port/polish/valve grind) headers and exhaut etc etc is what makes the 38 come alive. The carb is 426 cfm so your motor needs to be moving a lot of O2. You need increased flow (air intake > head > exhaust) or you will be suffering from an over carbed situation. You will end up running rich which is going to impact your acceleration, MPG, and overall performance. Keep in mind that one thing affects another. If you are adding more fuel you need more air to get a balanced burn (combustion). Also, more fuel and air requires more spark to effeciently burn. This means upgrading your ignition system. I highly recommend the MSD 6A box with the Blaster Coil and 8.5 mm wires with NGK plugs to run with the 38. The entire system will cost roughly $450-500 bucks.

People think they can just slap the 38 on with no modification and drive away and they are right. You can just slap it on and drive it down the road. But, if you want to do it right and have your 2.6 run correctly, then there are those things I mentioned above to consider. There is no sense in doing something half ass and I suspect most of you will agree.

The 32/36 is a direct bolt on replacement for the Mikuni and requires nothing more than an electric fuel pump to run correctly. You will have to make no further modifications to run and by that I mean passing emissions (if applicable). I take that back -- you will have to plug off some vaccum lines etc but that is easy stuff. I would advise you to go with the 32/36 if you are just a runner. If you want a serious kick in the pants (NA), you would be surprised on what these motors are capable of with the 38 and some modifications.

okay so when you go with the carter 40/70 electric fuel pump do you keep the same fuel lines or do you have to add a return line?

you dont use the return line on a weber. you just leave it open. on a weber theres only 1 vacum line and 1 fuel line. mine runs like crap with a weber its running rich. but i still got the mechanical fuel pump. i think im gona try that electric one.

Brendo is correct on the "no return line" comment. If you are jetted and tuned correctly (this also means timing), you will burn every last drop of fuel that goes through the carb. Return lines are an emission thing and not necessary with a weber -- actually impossible as there is no return capability on these carbs.

If you are running rich, then you should lean out your unit and convert to electric....