Poll - would you be Interested in a 4g64 turbo manifold (13 votes)

Hello Everyone

We just want to start out as saying, We where a members of mightyd50 where a lot of good info was put up by us. I feel this site has some merit so We believe it's time to discuss the belief by some that the 4g64 sohc 8 valve is a poor engine to turbo needless to say there is some challenges This is a post of a group of people that have done it and this is the story
Once upon a time about 7 years ago I(Steve) and my friend Richard looked at a truck in the scrap yard yes we where

It says you built a manifold but the pics look like its cast. Any more clarity on that? I have found bolt on top mount turbo manifolds for this 8v head. Price is between $200-400. What price would you be building and selling them for?

Good right up. At least Im not one of the only ones trying to turbo this beast.

Your right it does look like cast but it is made out of sch 40 pipe fitting with 3/8 plate flanges it's just 7 years old now and I never painted it so it's just rust that you see from great Canadian winters. My manifold is for sure a lot lighter then a cast one remember you have that cast manifold/turbo/downpipe hanging off of 8 small head studs I don't have any extra support from the block or engine mount to prop up the setup. As for my price it looks like I would be doing it for $350.00+shipping(CAN) your dollar keeps droping. That would give you the manifold and a downpipe piece as long as I have a turbo that I can use for sizing I will also test fit it to my truck and send you pictures to make sure it has proper fitment before I ship it out. I just made another post read it, see what you think. With this setup you can run 5 psi boost as a daliy drive with a stock engine no problem and still keep your gas milage.

The manifold I was referring to is from the starions in australia. They used the same 8v head and came with tc-06's I think, from thte factory over there. I dont hink they had any problems with the weight of the cast and the turbo. But it is a good thing to keep in mind.

Have you ran 4-5psi on stock internals and fuel on this 46g4? I will be using a T25 from a 2G DSM engine, my down pipe will have to be custom made as well.

I may have missed it but what did you do in terms of oil recirculation? Did you use the oil filter housing for the oil feed line? Have you tried bolting on a oil pan from a 7 bolt dsm?

I believe that the manifold you

Did you do this 4-5psi and run out of fuel? Or is this an educated guess? I am just curious. What is telling you it would run out of fuel and at that exact rpm?

The manifolds are easy to be had over there, the issue is the shipping cost. But I have been quoted less than 250 shipped. How long would it take for you to make one?

No uneducated guess work here just very expense mistakes, well it could have been. It was my first turbo project and I was very excited about driving it even down the back alley way just to see if it would spin the turbo with no (upgraded) fuel pump in the tank no fuel control (super AFC) no timing control no upgraded injectors no (upgraded) fuel pressure regulator she was a small turbo that spooled up at 10psi@ 1000rpm so by the time it got to 2000rpm it knocked and buck and would not drive any faster it had run out of fuel(super lean). Well it was so cool we put it back in the garage and invested in the above items, and then we had a turbo truck. Just to put it in perspective the stock fuel system may have 10-20 percent extra over max rpm so really there is no room. As for how long it would take to make a exhaust manifold 10 hours how long to get to you maybe 2 weeks depends on shipping preference I would have to find a t-25 turbo or the bolt pattern I do have a turbo outlet O2 housing for a turbo talon. I just don't know if it changes/different for the automatic turbo (t-25) and the standard turbo (TD04-14g) I have the standard housing

That must have a been a very very small turbo to spool that amount that fast. The T25 is small and it still took almost 3500rpm's to reach 11psi. But 10psi on stock everything is a no no, thats a lot for the computer to try and compensate for.

The automatic turbo is a 13G for anything 1990 through 1994, the manual cars had the 14B and anything, auto or manual, from 1995 and up had the T25 garret. They all use the same mount pattern.

Thanks for the info. Hope all this helps some other people.

Yes you are right about the turbos. I just remenber someone running a t-25 in an auto of 92 vintage and thought that all auto's where t-25 it's been a long time since I looked at one. The turbo that spools @ 3500rpm was that in 2.0l talon, I had a "Laser RS" and yes it did take that long to spool the TD04-14g it sucks. The 2.0l turbo are known for not having any low end torque. This has to do with the engine timing. for shit's and giggles wire in a stock 2.0l n/a computer in your talon and pull back the "cas" about ten degress on a 1990-1994 car only to avoid detination, and you with find it runs really rich but if you put a super AFC on the computer to pull the fuel out at the lower RPM's to get it to run right the timing maps are way different in the n/a the turbo will spool way faster and you will have low end torque. Give it a try see what you think. Oh and if you do put the t-25 turbo on your 2.4l 4g64 with the stock computer and a super AFC, injectors ,pump in tank and regulator it will have full boost 10-11 psi at 2000 rpm easy. The computer timing and .4l disp. will make the turbo move real good. You see this in rally cars with low end torque to get out of coners. I also tuned my Dodge Stealth r/t t/t the same way but I can change fuel/timing in that with my AEM-EMS.
My BMW 535xi is also tuned the same way I have the dinan chip, but I did not tune that it was bought. Maybe I will do a write up in timing.

I have seen 2.4 mitsu engines with small turbos on them and never had an issue with turbo spool at idle... Maybe there was a problem?? Either way, im sure its fun to have such boost at low RPM's but with a motor that is known to have low end, and top out at like 4500 a bigger turbo is the best way to go.

IM not a fan of piggybacks lying to the ECU (S-AFC's and such) I dont feel like they are a great idea for a true well running car. Id rather wire in a ECU with timing and fuel maps for a turbo car. Or a standalone system. But it sound like your truck has made it this far, so its doing something.

Also the oil filter housing has a cleaner and better spot to get oil from for the turbo, just some FYI. Why choose the head?