i need some help with wiring my amp and subs

ok i need some help here...i have 2 aw201t 10" audiobahn high excursion subs that i will be using with a mtx thunder 2301 amp (for now)...i am confused because they are single voice coil subs but have 2 terminals on each sub like a dual voice coil. Is this so that you can wire up 1 sub like normal and then wire the other sub to the extra terminals on the first sub like a series? Also, does this bridge them out? I only have 1 terminal (1 positive and 1 negative) running into my box. Since i have these subs running together do i wire up my positive and negative to the amp like i'm only using 1 sub or do i still cross over and bridge them out like i would with 2 subs? Sorry if it's confusing i have a visual below of what i'm talking about. Also my brother mentioned the ohms...these subs are 4 ohm and in the amp specs it says it can be ran 2 ohm or 4 ohm at different wattage. can someone help me out cause i really don't want to blow anything today...





Product Specs


Model: AW102T

450 Watts RMS / 900 Watts Max Each!
Huge 80 oz Magnet!
Cast Basket
Single 4 Ohm Voice Coil
PHAT 2" Foam Surround
Freq. Response: 29 Hz - 1 kHz
Mounting Depth: 5"
Efficiency: 92.3 dB
Non-Pressed, Non-Transfer Paper Cone with KM3 Coating For No Cone Distortion
Multi-Connection Lug Lock Terminals





-300 watts x 1 @ 2 ohms
-150 watts x 1 @ 4 ohms
-Class D Monoblock
-High Powered Transformer
-Patented Smart Engage Auto Turn on
-Patented Power Supply
-Adaptive Class D Technology
-Prizm EFX (Color Change Effect)
-Xtant Technology Inside

Edited: 8/16/2005 9:43:51 AM by bodydropped

r u postive that those r svc because if they have 2 sets that means that there dvc so i would double check them out and those subs need more power than what that amp is puttin out u need a bigger amp

yeah thats what i thought...but it says right on the box single 4 ohm voice coil. When i took them out i was like wtf but a buddy of mine said its so theres not as many wires to deal with and you can just keep wiring 1 sub off of the last and so on and so on...i just didnt know if this bridged them out or not

does the side post say +- and +- or ++ --

contact an audiobahn dealer perhaps?

Originally posted by ss ten



Is this so that you can wire up 1 sub like normal and then wire the other sub to the extra terminals on the first sub like a series?

That is correct. It makes it easier to run the wires between the subs.

Surely that amp is good to run at 2 ohm, so you can run positive from the amp to positive of sub 1 and amp negative to the negative of the same sub. Then run wire from the positive of sub 1 to sub 2 pos. and then from neg. of sub 1 to neg. of sub 2. That amp should already be bridged (since it is a one channel amp),either way, this will give you your 2 ohm load. Make your wires as short as possible (length creates resistance) and as close to same length as possible.

well i got everything hooked up and working. Sound's great but i still need to do a little adjusting. I am pretty suprised at how hard it hits with the little 300 watt amp i'm using. Anyway, i noticed it kinda sounds like it needs more bass depth or like the subs need to release some air. Do you guys think it would sound better if i put like 1 or 2 2" portholes in the top of the box?

yea dude--i sell those amps at work. for what they are, they put out some good power and they last a while too. and yes, audiobahn does that to make it easier on you when it goes to installing them.

as for the box, it all depends on the size of the box that ur workin with and what kind of sound ur lookin for. the ports might give u a louder sound, but you will lose some clarity and precision. BUT--audiobahn subs arent known for that so like i said, its all kinda up to you.

do you think if i add like 1 port in the top or between the subs that it will give me a deeper bass?

Originally posted by ss ten



do you think if i add like 1 port in the top or between the subs that it will give me a deeper bass?

you cant just drill a couple holes and call them ports, ports need to have a certain amount of volume to properly tune the rear wave of the sub to be complimentary. If you just drill acouple holes, you will unload the cones and blow the speakers in a very short time. It will not sound any better, in fact it will sound like a box with a couple air leaks. HONK HONK HONK.

Secondly, a ported box usually requires more airspace than a sealed box. So taking a box that is too small and trying to port it is not an effective strategy.

If you want LOUD, usually a smaller than optimum sealed box with WAAAYYY to much power will keep the cones from trying to escape. If you want LOW, a BIG ported box with proper port sizes tuned at or around fs will dig ditches. But bear in mind. The small sealed box may be accurate, but not low. THe big ported box may be low, but it will not be as accurate. Also, ported boxes are really dangerous at high levels with notes below the tuned frequency. Usually the speaker acts as if it is in free air and distortion tilts the cone, the voice coil go poof.

haha we used to test our small sealed boxes with big excursion woofers by plugging them into a wall socket. Theoreticaly, its about 2500 watts at 60HZ. Cheap polypropylene woofers would completely invert, the cone would push out and become a reverse cone!