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Yota 2.4L 22-RE I4 \  think its pooped out

think its pooped out

Yota 2.4L 22-RE I4 Yota Engine Yota Tech
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replies 18
following 6
 
toyotaman89   +1y
also, an easy way to find out if it is a main bearing or rod...

start the engine, as it knocks, pull spark plug wire off cyl 1- did the knock stop? if so, then its a that one. If not, put it back on and pull wire #2... (if you disconnect the spark plug wire, theres no fire in the cyl to make the rod knock, or at least not knock as bad... ) so if you end up finding a plug wire that makes a huge difference in sound after you pull it and re-connect it....thats the cylnder with the bad rod or main bearing !
nook   +1y
Without actually hearing the noise its hard to be specific but heres a few ideas , is the oil level full? is the noise consistent, a steady knock knock? possibly a rod but hopefully not. The oil pump, gear driven off the front of the crank, pretty foolproof but do occasionally go bad. They can be checked with feeler gauges, the gears inside have specific clearances to the housing, the timing chain mounting surface where the pump mounts should be smooth and flat, any grooves can cause loss of oil pressure. The front seal leaking is common on the 20/22R engines and can leak more than it appears as the fan blows the oil back underneath making a mess. The crank pully is technically a harmonic balancer, the early engines were a solid cast unit, the later engines had a rubber banded balancer to better absorb harmonics, and they do come apart once in awhile, also a crack in the keyway or the bolt backs off allowing it to move around making noises.
Coming down the hill on compression unloads the engine and the vacuum lifts the oil to the top end of the engine, thats why I asked is it full, a loss of oil pressure could allow the timing chain tensioner to loose tension and sometimes they can stick in letting the chain flog around in the cover, they will really rattle then, also if the chain is getting old it could have broken the drivers side tensioner rail, if so it will eat into the timing cover in short order making a real mess of water/antifreeze into the engine.
Popping off the valve cover you can look down the cover at the rail condition and also the chain tension. Good luck.
holcombe347   +1y
nook, dude, your my hero. lol.
draggin87yota   +1y


yup when i got my yota,they never checked and couple months l8er i got screwed lol
loweredtoy   +1y
thanks a million, looks like my weekends gonna suck
holcombe347   +1y


think of it as a learning experience....
toyotaman89   +1y
no problem, ruining weekends is what we do best!!! LOL
loweredtoy   +1y
yeah kinda comes with owning a toyota. A couple months ago i redid all the gaskets from the head up, guess i should of dug a little deeper. But hopefully i might be getting something else to drive. So v8 baby.
loweredtoy   +1y
ok, so i've not had a chance to tear it down yet, but a little more info on the case. They way my timing is set the truck idles fairly low, so when its idling rather low the knock is not there, but as soon as i touch the gas it comes back. And i had to drive it a small distance and when your accelerating under load at lower rpms the knock either isn't their or barely noticeable. any other suggestions?