Missfire

I resealed my tank when I had the truck down to nothing. So within a year. Last time I used Seafoam I had similar problems to these and my truck wouldn't run right for about a week.


Nook, I pulled the carb, cleaned it thoroughly, and put all new parts in it. It is actually not a CA version carb. This is a brand new carb I bought that was intended for a 1980 Celica with a 20R, not state specific.

I think its a rich condition, but I could be wrong. All I know is that it sputters when I try to rev it up.

It starts up very easily, and runs well at higher RPMs, and slightly rough at lower RPMs. And if left alone the idle dwindles down until it dies about 60 seconds into idling on its own.

After running a while and shutting off, it starts back up just fine. It seems to crank for slightly longer, but not by much.

When I drove it, there was no smoke. It only blows crap out the pipe on startup when I start working on it. And its not blowing smoke, just condensation that I believe is cleaning the carbon out of the pipe left from previous smoke?

Its never puffed blue or white smoke, just the standard its cold outside freezing exhaust as it exits the pipe type smoke.

Someone said to try the propane truck to see if I have a vacuum leak at the intake manifold or the carb, to see if its running lean.

I have a similar problem with my truck. It wants to die around 900 rpm. So I just turned the idle up to 1100 and it works fine. Once the engine gets rebuilt, i will run the idle at 900.

It starts up very easily, and runs well at higher RPMs, and slightly rough at lower RPMs. And if left alone the idle dwindles down until it dies about 60 seconds into idling on its own.

After running a while and shutting off, it starts back up just fine. It seems to crank for slightly longer, but not by much.



From your description it sounds like a vacuum leak, runs good at higher RPM's, dies if left to idle, The propane trick I,ve tried before, never had a lot of success myself, a spray can of starting fluid or carb cleaner seems to also work good, although gotta be careful of painted stuff, the carb cleaner will kill the engine where starting fluid will increase the idle when sucked in at a vacuum leak. Go around the carb good and also along the top and bottom of the intake to head surface squirting and listening. Also by cupping your hand over the carb top when the engines starts to die out will basically hand choke it and richen it so engine speed will pick up. PCV valve?? not stuck open/clogged, brake booster line? sources of major vacuum suckage besides carb itself. If all else fails you'll just have to drive it flat out all the time since it runs good at upper revs

Hmm, I haven't checked the PCV valve, or the check valve on the booster. I know they are not leaking though. I will try the starting fluid trick today if I can get someone to come help out.

since you have had the carb of a few times make sure the gasket is sealing and if you have the vacuum plate under the carb in the right position. (if yours has it)

my truck blows the exact same black condensation from the exhaust on startup, but the engine runs fine - idles properly and doesnt blow smoke, but i changed my air filter and the problem went away for about 2-3 weeks but came back.. no idea whats goin on? 22r carby engine

Hey Seth, Did ya make any headway on the carb problem?? hope so.

Well I didn't find any leaks anywhere on the intake.

Is it possible it could be a rich condition? If the float isn't letting the needle set all the way would it cause a rich condition at low RPMs? My friend brought this up since I have had the top of the carb off 2-3 times, and only set it when I first installed the new float.

If the float level is not set correctly it could definately cause a rich condition, esspecially if its set to high. The float level should be set so when the engine is running at an idle the fuel level should be centered in the round sight glass on the front of the carb fuel bowl. If set too high the extra fuel in the bowl fouls up the metering allowing it to run rich, too low and it can hesitate and stumble under acceleration, its basically running out of gas.
Also if the needle and seat in the carb is not seating regardless of the float setting, its pumping the float bowl full and causing it to run rich, if its really bad the fuel can and will start overflowing out the top of the carb because the needle can't close and shut off the fuel flow.
Good luck.

damn i came back today in high hopes that seth solved it...i'm still in for knowledge