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Air Ride Suspensions \  SFBD question

SFBD question

Air Ride Suspensions Q & A
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replies 20
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madmike   +1y
fuck it use 2x2 angle works great lol, but seriously channel the floor some... you will still have you head room
bgp1mpin   +1y
what i was getting at was you'll have more of an I beam effect if two pieces were welded together making it less likely to bow in any direction and still leaving you with a 2 inch tall piece
olskoolpup   +1y
Originally posted by bgp1mpin



what i was getting at was you'll have more of an I beam effect if two pieces were welded together making it less likely to bow in any direction and still leaving you with a 2 inch tall piece

if thought of this too, but thats a fuck-ton of welding.

i know ive got to channel some if i put it on the side. if i go with it standin up, thats another inch of channel. and like i said, on top of the b/d i want to chop the top 3". headroom is gonna be at a high commodity. im not trying to scamp out on doing work. hell, no matter what im making a whole new floor outta sheetmetal and bracing anyways. just want to get as much drop outta the frame as i can, leaving me with only a little channel and more headroom to play with.
bdroppeddak   +1y
nah, when we say channel, just cut the floore around the frame, then one of these deals [ out of sheetmetal to cap it. the floor and seats are lower, but theres a "channel" that the frame runs through.
olskoolpup   +1y
ah right on
bgp1mpin   +1y
yeah that would work too and you could widen it a bit to get it closer to the rockers so it would be like an older vette and the frame wouldnt stick up under your pedals. someone built a dodge truck that the frame stuck up through the floor that would be something to check out if you can find it cause i dont even remember where i saw it
bdroppeddak   +1y
my arch nemesis terry (impounded_dakota) had his truck channeled.
maz duh   +1y
I agree with Cris, a little bit of a channel job would do the trick without compromising structural integrity or much headroom.
bagged89S10   +1y
I wouldn't go smaller than 2x3. I have seen 2x3x1/4" used on a truck and it still flexes. I have seen people weld a long 1/4" plate down inside the center of a 2x3 to strengthen it up. Just have to drill holes every 4" or so on the top of the 2x3 and plug weld the plate inside it. Also drill holes on the bottom but stagger them....like this.... ',',',',',',',',', ..it will strengthen the shit out of your frame rail under the cab. Thats what i recomend.
olskoolpup   +1y
Originally posted by bagged89S10



I wouldn't go smaller than 2x3. I have seen 2x3x1/4" used on a truck and it still flexes. I have seen people weld a long 1/4" plate down inside the center of a 2x3 to strengthen it up. Just have to drill holes every 4" or so on the top of the 2x3 and plug weld the plate inside it. Also drill holes on the bottom but stagger them....like this.... ',',',',',',',',', ..it will strengthen the shit out of your frame rail under the cab. Thats what i recomend.

is that with 3" being the height or 2" being the height.

i think ive decided to just go ahead and run it 3" height and like someone said, run the rails further outboard so when i channel it, itll be really close to the doors and not interfere with any legroom, seat mounts, etc. thanks fellas