how to : mono leaf and lowering block install

I just try to tighten them evenly and I tighten them "tight". LOL!

Okay man but u haven't had any issues like the main leaf breaking or bending axle housings from hitting hard bumps? Thank u for the reply I'm just always paranoid after I do any mods...

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What I do when taking leaf springs apart is use 2 "C" clamps to hold the springs together, 1 on each side of the center bolt. After I remove the center bolt, I replace it with a long piece of allthread, about 12" long, 2 flatwashers, and 2 nuts. If you have access to a welder, weld 1 nut to the all thread to make it a bolt, or double nut it. Once the allthread is in place, and tightened down, remove the 2 "C" clamps. Now you can start loosening the nut on the allthread until the tension is gone and the spring leafs are loose. You can remove the allthread now. Once you figure out how you want to stack your springs, you can use the allthread to put them back together. When the springs are tight, put the 2 "C" clamps back in place, remove the allthread, and put the center bolt back in.
I just finished lowering my 87 B2000. What I did was removed the leaf springs from the truck, disassembled them as described above, flipped the main leaf over, and installed 2 additional leafs for a total of 3 leafs, plus the overload spring. I then used a 1" block. This is how the trucks sits now.


I'm running 235/75/14 tires on the rear. I have about 1" of travel before the rearend hits the frame. It rides good. I've been doing it this way for years without any trouble.

I love your wheels man.

Thanks

Truck looks good bro! It's different from other mazdas I've seen. I don't really wanna go buy new blocks and if i flipped main spring I would have axle on frame for sure. I have four inch blocks and monoleaf now it rides pretty good better than before (I think that's mostly due to cutting the bumpstops down...) and this is where it sits now





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hey guys - sorry to dig up an old thread but every time I read one of these static lowering posts I get a lot of different information!

i'm currently running a 1985 B2000 extra cab with standard shocks and torsion bars wound down in the front (not yet re-indexed) and standard shocks with 3" blocks in the rear along with all the standard leaf springs.

What I want to do it get it lower all round with still some clearance that it wont hit the frame/chassis on hard bumps. I understand how to re-index the torsion bars and will be doing that shortly and I also understand how to remove the rear leaf springs so that i'm left with just the main spring and the overload spring underneath that....what I want to know is:

what shocks will I need if I re-index the front by 2 and take the leaf springs out of the rear as mentioned above but retain the 3" blocks?

I'm in Australia where not too many of these trucks are played with so some brands and part numbers I could give to my auto shop would be really helpful! Its a daily driver but not used for driving great distances, more concerned with a low stance but no knocking.....i'll also cut the rubber bump stops while its apart too.


thanks heaps guys for probably explaining this again for the 1,000,000th time but this seems to be the place to get the right info!!

Russell

PS: forgot to mention i'm only running 16" rims

1985 Isuzu pickup FRONT shocks (bolt right up and are 1 3/4" shorter)

2000 Nissan quest REAR shocks (bolt right up and are 1 3/4 " shorter)

Not sure what these vehicles would be called (if different or even available there) but that's what I know for here in the states. Hope it helped a little

thanks a lot for you quick reply and help jiffyzx6!

I might even need to order some from the US which im not opposed to doing - just thought if there was a Monroe or Gabriel or KYB unit that works then i'm sure the parts numbers - regardless of what car its from - should be the same over here too

I you need any help getting anything from over hear just ask, I don't mind sending stuff over and can pretty much ship anything threw my work.