Blower motor and blower resistor check out

so should i start with resister or the blower it self? or better yewt whats the cheapest fix.... Ineed my ac in FLORIDA!!!! lol
Thanks again fellas!!!
-Jay-

It's not the blower (fan) motor, that has only two wires to it. So if it spins OK at all, it's OK.

If it was mine, I'd check out the blower resistor resistance readings, clean it off, and/or substitute a used blower resistor module in. New ones are available, about $45, and likely not returnable, unless you're buddies with a parts guy.

cool thanks my fan spines free just no ac it usually worked on the II setting now its just straight fan on only III and higher nothing II and lower.
Thanks
-Jay-

Sounds like blower resistor to me !!!

ok im having problems with this fan works a/c switch works system is charged but compressor doesnt kick in i jumped the compressor to test the compressor it works system blows cold will the culprit still be the blower resistor if the fan works on all speeds??

also if were to buy a new one they have atleast 5 some say cali which im not in and the truck was bought new locally so its a fla truck theres also federal resistors???

also whats that stuff on the resistor coils? looks like ceramic or something some has broke off on my resistor but the little coil wires are good

Responding to your PM, where you state "I got power goin in and out the low pressure switch on the drier also when i turn the ignition switch to run and turn the fan speed to any speed btw all the speeds work and push in the a/c switch i hear a click like the relay is kicking in but still compressor doesnt come on now"

So with engine on, and AC switched on, blower fan on, you get voltage coming out of the pressure switch on the receiver drier? If so, then problem would seem to be between the pressure switch and the compressor. Try checking for voltage in that wire at the compressor (be careful) with all switched on; if none, try jumping from the pressure switch to the compressor wire directly for a few seconds. If there's power to the compressor and it's electric clutch is not engaging, then sounds like an AC clutch issue, report back what you find.

Yeah, there is a coating on the blower resistor coils. But if you're getting voltage past that to the receiver-drier like you say, then the blower resistor is not your issue. The circuit through the blower resistor energizes the AC relay, which delivers voltage through the defrost/de-icer switch on the evaporator case, near the AC relay, then to the receiver-drier pressure switch, and then on to the compressor. PM me with your E-mail address if you'd like an AC wiring diagram.

Im sorry i had the compressor jumpd when i used a check light on the low pressure switch i did what u said engine running fan on ac switch on and used a test light on the low pressure switch and got nothing

Josh - PM me with your E-mail address, you need a copy of the AC wiring circuit diagram. You need to isolate/determine where the 12 volt positive circuit stops.

You said when you turn ingnition on and fan on, and push in the AC switch that you hear the AC relay on the evaporator case click/energize. So take out the glove box and check for voltage going from that to the defrost switch on the AC evaporator box.

If present, check the terminal, wire leaving that.

If there, check the wire going to the receiver-drier pressure switch.