BIG PROBLEM WITH KUSTOMSWERK ARMS

His are for a '92 Toyota.

Ok... so i took some measurements...

center of ball joint to center of cross shaft on the uppers is 8"

lift at the cross member between the arms is 9 1/2"



I also tried flipping the arms and ball joints like was suggested and it made no difference

Well its now approaching a month since the problem was first noticed and I told Eric...

I've told him what i'd like to do... and I still havnt heard from him in a week.

This is great!!! I love it...

Is it possible that you have the upper arms on the wrong sides? From the pic in your Maz profile it looks like those uppers arms are made to fit one side.

I dunno

are you gonna go with 20's??

I tried flipping them and switching the bj's... no dice!

they will hardly lay 18's as it is right now... I bought them with the intention that they will lay 20's.

so it really doesn't matter if im runnin 20's or not.

I am running 18's though, and i'd like to have a bit of rubber on them...

did you buy the arms for looks or did you buy them to lay a 20?

Originally posted by TiMe_1



did you buy the arms for looks or did you buy them to lay a 20?

Both.

It makes no difference if you flip the ball joints as you found out corey. Those control arms are made as it seems to have no angle. I made mine the same way but the only difference is my 4 runner was never going to lay 20s biggest I can go without cutting into the hood is a 17. The only way your going to figure it out would be to lift it as far as it will go see if the ball joint binds if not then Eric will have to make a new set with a slight angle to correct your problem.

are you using any camber shims behind the cross shaft? Get some shims, install them. speaking geometrically, it should reduce the angle on the upper balljoint and give you a few more degrees of flexibility.


Also, if you just have a bare frame, have you tried stepping on the frame horns? Mine bound up the bushings and wouldnt touch the ground till I had some weight on the front. Just a thought.

Yes, I just verified this. Regular camber shims behind the crossbar will give you the extra angle you need.

I marked the angle of the "spindle" in the original position.



Then I added a "shim" behind the "upper control arm" moving the pivot out slightly



and noted the resultant change of the spindle angle. Please note the limit angle of the LCA did not change, the amount of "drop is still the same. but the limit angle of the upper did, and the spindle angle is much improved.

This can be a great way to "fine tune" you custom made control arms to make sure you bottom out exactly at limit, and top out exactly at limit.