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Mazda Trucks \  MASSIVE smoking when cold

MASSIVE smoking when cold

Mazda Trucks Make Specific
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MRCO   +1y
so i got this mazda. iv had it for like 3 weeks now. when i start it in the morning it USUALLY just puffs a small amoutn of smoke and clears up in less than one minuet. saturday i go for emissions and barely fails on CO so i change the oil real fast(10w-30) and retest. it failed worse.

anyways. this morning i wake up and start it and it smokes INSANELY bad until i get about 2 miles down the road and then it clears up. so thinking the oil was too thin for high mileage(180k it is a quiet motor so i figured 10w-30 would be fine) i changed it this morning with a bottle of lucas oil stabilizer and 3 quarts of straight 60wt. i thought i had it licked for a while and then let it sit for a few hours and started it again. and there ya go WOOOOOOOOOFFFF maddddd smoke until a few miles down the road.

it is obvious to me that valve stem seals are toast(seeping when it sits). but WHY all the sudden after i changed the oil to a lighter weight and then when i changed to a heavy oil it didnt improve? maybe some kinda PCV problem or something? wheres russ at? he can probably figure this out in his sleep.

if anyone has some emission tips also i need this thing to pass emissions after i get valve stem seals put in it.
dssur   +1y
because oil builds up a sludge that seals small leaks. When you change viscocity or even brands, (some oils even have a high detergent content to clean sludge) you can break up that sludge and cause BIGGER leaks.

I had a 78 toyota, it was ugly and the motor was covered in oil but I didnt care. I sold it to my brother in law and he powerwashed the engine. Suddenly the engine was leaking like a sieve, oil comming from every dried up gasket on the motor.


So your seals were likely cracked and worn, but there was a helpful bit of sludge built up around the stem that sealed it. Now that its gone, you have to wait for the engine to heat up and the seals to expand slightly to seal.

Changing the seals insnt bad. My friend crutch can do it in 4 hrs and about 10 beers.
KEEF   +1y
Carbon is built up on pistons making rings stick until it heats up and lets em break loose.......REring and clean em up good and problem solved had several Mazda's with same prob
MRCO   +1y
i think sport truck magazine had an atricle awhile back about helpful small stuff you can do to your engine to help it out etc...

they said take a spray bottle of water and raise the idle and spray water into the intake and itll take some carbon off pistons and stuff. ima try it tomorrow just for the F of it.

im also gonna get ahold of a dude i know that has a head shop. see what it would run me to do valve stem seals. any other ideas?
livinlow   +1y
water in you're motor hmm smells like hydrolock to me, i wouldn't be trying that one.
MRCO   +1y
no no just a mist of water not like a garden hose or anything.
kaoss   +1y
make sure there's not too much oil in it. another common problem with mazdas is the pistons rings. they wear just enough when they are cold, they let oil pass and burn in the chamber.Once the rings get hot and seat again, it stops smoking.

My mazda smokes when i fire it up,only when it's really cold outside.If it's warm out side,doesn't matter how long it sits, it doesn't smoke.

you can replace those valve guide seals, but i don't think think it will help that much.I'm almost positive it's the rings and you have to much oil in it.
dssur   +1y
usually you can tell which you need (rings or seals) by this simple test:

If the engine is down on power and smokes, its rings.

If the engine runs fan freakin tastic, but smokes either at warmup or all the time, its the seals.

I had a smoker with good power that had an oil ring stuck in with carbon. I had one with bad valve seals I put a new head on and the added compression of the new head caused the rings to go bad.

Mazda sells something called "top engine cleaner" that you suck in a vacuum line with the engine running till it dies. Then you let it sit over night, and ingest the rest while revving the engine. Its like 5 bucks a can and does a pretty fair job on carbon. I've had luck pouring some kerosene down the spark plug holes and letting it seit overnight, then running (idling and just over idle) the engine GENTLY (the kerosene thins out the oil, you'll spin a bearing quick) for an hour or so. Then change the oil and filter, and repeat after about 1000 miles. Cleans up stuff inside like carbon pretty well.
MRCO   +1y
it runs very well. where can i get the mazda carbon cleaner your talking about? the closest mazda dealer is like an hour away from me.....

ya know what...come to think of it when i start it in the morning before it started smoking, itll spit out black water out the exhaust. like excessively. my driveway has carbon jizz marks stained on it.
MRCO   +1y
what about a BG 44k? iv used BG stuff before and possibly worth a try? what do u think?