air zenith amp draw?

then something isnt wired correctly. check all your connections and grounds..

how much psi are you running?????

here's something else to be aware of........
if they draw around 28 amps apiece at normal psi, then times that by 2 units, which is 54 amps, that puts it already close to the amperage rating of the fuse. the fuse would blow because: a.) approx 54 amps over a period of time would exceed the fuses mechanical ability and cause it to fail, b) heat the element inside the fuse enough (with amperage continuously running through it at near peak levels) to weaken it and cause it to fail prematurely.

normally a fuse will only hold near a fuses peak for a very short period. sounds more like you might be exceeding the fuses ability, not so much by momentary current draw, but by consistant draw at or near the fuses ability. that's how fuses work, they blow off of heat......so, in escence a fuses ability to conduct current is actually it's ability to transfer heat. if too much heat is introduced, it destoys the element, and pop............no more fuse.

Try a 70 amp fuse. Also, if you are running the compressors beyond 200psi then you are are asking for trouble. Although they may be able to handle it, they were not intended for it. You'll end up shortning it's life and cause yourself headache. If you want over 200 psi, get a bottle. Otherwise, with normal use, those are very solid compressors.

very nice explanation ^

Edited: 4/20/2006 5:44:09 AM by onyx

Originally posted by shvd64cdy



here's something else to be aware of........if they draw around 28 amps apiece at normal psi, then times that by 2 units, which is 54 amps, that puts it already close to the amperage rating of the fuse. the fuse would blow because: a.) approx 54 amps over a period of time would exceed the fuses mechanical ability and cause it to fail, b) heat the element inside the fuse enough (with amperage continuously running through it at near peak levels) to weaken it and cause it to fail prematurely.

normally a fuse will only hold near a fuses peak for a very short period. sounds more like you might be exceeding the fuses ability, not so much by momentary current draw, but by consistant draw at or near the fuses ability. that's how fuses work, they blow off of heat......so, in escence a fuses ability to conduct current is actually it's ability to transfer heat. if too much heat is introduced, it destoys the element, and pop............no more fuse.

Try a 70 amp fuse. Also, if you are running the compressors beyond 200psi then you are are asking for trouble. Although they may be able to handle it, they were not intended for it. You'll end up shortning it's life and cause yourself headache. If you want over 200 psi, get a bottle. Otherwise, with normal use, those are very solid compressors.



roger that.

i only keep em on until about 200 psi. if that. usually its only 180. im going to try getting a bigger fuse today and see how it works.

yesterday morning i had the comps on for about 3-4 minutes and the fuse blew on me. but if i run them about 10 psi at a time, it'll last quite a few days.

i think its just the constant running and amp draw that is burning it out so quick.

Edited: 4/20/2006 7:58:25 AM by loudciv

I HAVE 2 OF THEM RUNNING 150PSI ON A 5 GALL, 8 GA WIRE EACH FROM A DIGITAL DISTRIBUTION BLOCK THAT MEASURES AMPS & VOLTS. THE DIST BLOCK IS DISPLAYING AMP DRAW FOR BOTH AT 70 AMPS (DEAD EMPTY) TO 86 AMPS (FILLED).

This is actually a great topic cause I was going to ask the same questions. The question I have that sort of goes with this is what do you guys do to keep your compressor from killing your battery? The compressor I am running now has already killed my battery once and I was planning on getting a AZ to run at 200psi but I dont want to have it kill my battery. Is there anything I can do to keep the amp draw from drawing too much? Are yall running stronger outputting alternators to compensate? I usually dont run my compressor without my car on but like Jim my volt meter drops when it turns on. I have an aftermarket pulley on my alternator and I have a stock one to put back on to help but should I look into running a stronger alternator with this compressor or 2 batteries? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

two batteries would only add (increasing reserve) voltage, not amperage. in order to get more amperage (which is what you need) you'll number one, definatley get rid of that under-drive pulley. under-drive pulleys bring your electrical system below stock levels which is bad in two ways 1. you don't have any additional amperage for accessories. 2. they can make most vehicles run hot. (because although a peice of equipment may operate between 10.4 and 16v dc, it is intended and designed to run at around 13.4vdc. The most noticable being the fan. if your fan was meant to run at 13.4vdc and it is only getting 12-12.5 vdc, it is adversely affecting your engines cooling characteristics. especially with summer approaching, this would probobly become a concern. also, if your vehicle is fuel injected, your vehicle may be running lean because the fuel pump isn't producing enough psi or gph.
For the downsides of underdrive pulleys, i'd just as soon stay with stock pulleys vs the 5-15 hp you might gain with reduced parasitic drag. But factor in the fuel, fan speed/cooling (pretty basic that the cooler the temp on a motor the more horsepower it produces, air density theory).

adding a battery once you've swapped the pulley back over may help if the voltage drops are intermittent, but you should look into an upgraded alternator, they add power in most instances by letting your electrical system operate at peak efficiency. (yes, this is true, even though you'll never see an alternator ad saying " + 10 hp yaday yada" think about it, or ask any engineer and they'll tell you the same.

Originally posted by loudciv



Edited: 4/20/2006 7:58:25 AM by loudciv

I HAVE 2 OF THEM RUNNING 150PSI ON A 5 GALL, 8 GA WIRE EACH FROM A DIGITAL DISTRIBUTION BLOCK THAT MEASURES AMPS & VOLTS. THE DIST BLOCK IS DISPLAYING AMP DRAW FOR BOTH AT 70 AMPS (DEAD EMPTY) TO 86 AMPS (FILLED).

i don't know how accurate an ameter on a distrubution block could be at all accurate. ameter's can only give you a true reading on a live line consuming power. check with an a/c tech, they'll explain how an ameter on a block could not be accurate. ameters read off a line, on a distribution block they would read all power on a circuit (which would be your entire vehicle, even though the entire vehicle is not running off that block, is still conected to the vehicles battery which would make it the same point (electrically) as the post on the battery.it's a fairly common misconception, and the electrical theory and principles behind it are complex, but this is the truth, i say ask an a/c tech because the are extremely versed in amperage and circuit designs/operations as well as taking readings such as voltage and amperage (and yes, those are two completely different things.)

hope this helps clarify, sory for the novel.

ive never screwed around with a digital dist block, but it could work correctly. an ammeter must be installed in series with the load. therefore, it could be attatched to the battery and the load connected to the other side and be legit.